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From: AlaskaTrawler (no email)
Date: Thu Jul 03 2003 - 23:57:30 EDT
----- Original Message -----
From: Baumgart, James
To: ''
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2003 1:11 PM
Subject: RE: [world-cruising] Coring and delamination (was steel)
I wrote about the pros and cons of steel versus fiberglass construction. In
my own situation, there is no chance that I would buy a steel boat. I was
trying to present some design factors for the group's consideration in a
un-biased manner (hard to do since I have a bias for fiberglass). Since
everything I wrote was my opinion, I will stand by it unless someone
convinces me otherwise. I am happy to see that something has stimulated
discussion on this otherwise very quiet list!
A good friend had a new trawler constructed (85 feet). He went in with
plans to build a steel boat and came back with an aluminum boat. I think
that is the way modern professional yacht construction is tending.
>>I can appreciate your opinion that the trend in yacht construction is toward aluminum not steel. While there are certainly more aluminum yachts being built today steel is still out pacing aluminum construction at least in powerboat designs.
However,
I don't know much about aluminum so I left outlining the pros and cons of
that metal to some other member. Clearly aluminum construction has many
benefits.
>>>What are the benfits of aluminum other than lighter weight?? Aluminum can burn/melt...Steel can't. Many steel vessels have been ravaged by fire for days at sea and remained afloat and were salvaged.
Aluminum is more prone to electrolysis than steel.
I can see a place for aluminum vessels and that would be for your planing vessels. The problem with aluminum in a displacement vessel is you have to add so much more ballast to weight ithe vessel down to its waterline than you would if the vessel was built of steel.
When I first looked at building Balto I looked into building the vessel with a steel hull and aluminum superstructure. This sounded great at first until I learned that by doing so I would have a righting moment that would be to quick. In other words the vessel would be to light on top
It was determined to acheive the best roll period a lighter steel superstructure would be the way to go.
If your requirement is to build a boat to survive a grounding, anchor
dragging, collision, beaching, etc. it can certainly be done in steel,
fiberglass, or aluminum. Perhaps even wood. (Wouldn't it be great to build
a boat out of 316 stainless!)
>>>>Building a vessel out of stainless steel would probably be the biggest mistake anyone could make.
Stainless steel is a great metal as long as it is not deprived of oxygen. Put it in salt water and it will worm hole in no time flat. I would advise you to log onto Mike Kastens website and read what he has to say about the use of stainless steel. Also the metal boat society has wrtten much on the subject.
I would never use it below the waterline. In building Balto I am using it for many of the interior support structures etc. Anywhere I must drill hloes and don't want rust bloom.
But there are so many other ways to prevent
or mitigate those terrible accidents.
My objective is to buy a good quality, used, blue water cruising boat and
outfit it for a 5 year voyage San Diego to Europe for 2 people (occasionally
4). Purchase for $50K and outfit for $25K. Seaworthiness is my primary
requirement - not bouncing off my navigational mistakes (even though I know
I'm going to make some). I will accept the inherent risks and know that the
boat may be lost. Lives may be lost. I will take full responsibility for
this and prepare for all eventualities that I can in advance. This is on
the low end of $ but if I buy more boat I will not have enough $ to cruise
anywhere.
No matter what your requirements (with exception of cruising near the
iceberg line) and budget I think you can meet your requirements and get more
boat for your money by purchase of a 10 to 15 year old proven production
fiberglass vessel.
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