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Subject: RE: [world-cruising] Keel Bolt Repair
From: Baumgart, James (james.baumgart@XXX.XXX)
Date: Wed Feb 12 2003 - 19:46:08 EST
From my research, Monel, Silicon Bronze and Bronze are not suitable for IRON
keels, although they work great with LEAD. By the way, no lead keel is pure
lead (it is too soft). Lead is alloyed with 2% antimony to make a keel.
If I had a lead keel, this repair could not be done. Lead keels have L or J
shaped studs. You can not sister the studs because drilled holes will not
hold threads. The keel would have to be removed. Either a new keel would
have to be fit or it can be partially melted down and new studs inserted.
Not worth doing on a 25 year old $6K boat.
I will post some photos when the repair is completed. It has been a
learning experience and quite nerve-wracking (boring six 3/4 inch holes in
the bottom while the boat is in the slip is not easy to contemplate). We
have a lot of work to do to turn this boat into a family coastal cruiser -
but we are looking forward to doing it and getting underway again.
-JimB
-----Original Message-----
From: Barry Brazier [mailto:ozboats@XXX.XXX]
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 12:32 PM
To: world-cruising@XXX.XXX
Subject: RE: [world-cruising] Keel Bolt Repair
I have had timber boats with monnel keelbolts holding external lead ballast.
I have not had to replace any.
Barry
-----Original Message-----
From: Desmond Smith [mailto:tropicislemacaws@XXX.XXX]
Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2003 10:08 AM
To: world-cruising@XXX.XXX
Subject: Re: [world-cruising] Keel Bolt Repair
Stainless steel is great in air but will not fair well underwater deprived
of oxygen. My understanding is that iron bolts hold up better in wet keel
applications.
You need to research this more thoroughly before making a decision.
Desmond Smith
----- Original Message -----
From: "Baumgart, James" <james.baumgart@XXX.XXX>
To: <world-cruising@XXX.XXX>
Sent: Friday, February 07, 2003 1:31 PM
Subject: [world-cruising] Keel Bolt Repair
>
> My 1978 Catalina 25 passed survey with good marks, EXCEPT ALL the keel
bolts
> are rusted away to nubs. The surveyor hit them with a small hammer and
they
> fell apart to dust. The nuts are gone entirely and the bolts themselves
look
> totally rusted, about 3 inches long, and the diameter of #2 pencils -
they
> are way too small and wasted to be re-threaded to take smaller nuts.
>
> On the Cat 25, while not encapsulated, the fixed keel is heavily glassed
in,
> and is made of iron. The old bolts (now studs) are glassed in and still
> holding the keel tight. There is not a single sign of keel separation
on
> the bottom.
>
> The bolts can be "sistered". A special drill press machine will be used
to
> drill new holes alongside the old bolts, the new holes will be threaded,
and
> 5 to 6 new 3/4" bolts will be screwed into the keel. These should be
able
> to be inserted through 3 inches of glass and into about 2 1/2 to 3
inches
of
> iron.
>
> The job can be done in the water and I got an estimate $900 to do it
from
a
> professional keel repairman. The deal is that the current owner must do
the
> repair and then I will inspect and if it's good, I will let my (full
price)
> offer stand. The surveyor will pass the boat if this is done.
>
> What do you think of this repair and is there any special instructions
for
> preventing galvinic corrosion in the keel or on the new bolts?
>
> It's a cast iron keel (good thing, lead would be unrepairable). Should
the
> new bolts be 316 stainless or mild steel?
>
> I am thinking of covering the bottom of the keel well with epoxy or some
> other sealant to keep the bolts dry in the future. The boat is normally
> bone dry, but every time you remove the knotmeter for cleaning a lot of
salt
> water comes in and ends up sitting in the well. What would you do to
> protect these bolts? Grease? Sealant? Epoxy?
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
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>
>
>
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>
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