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Re: T&T: Fuel pumps

From: (no name) (no email)
Date: Thu Mar 06 2008 - 10:14:42 EST

  • Next message: Milt Baker: "T&T: Re; chain counter"

    This is more about fuel pumps than most people want to know.

    Most electrical fuel pumps, like the Walbro, the old Bendix, the old SU, and
    the Facet, work in a similar manner. At one end of the pump there is a pumping
    chamber usually consisting of a cavity closed by a diaphragm or piston. Input
    and output valves are at the top of the cavity to direct the fuel flow. A
    solenoid core is attached to the diaphragm. When the diaphragm is at the top of
    its stroke, an electrical contact is made which activates the solenoid and
    pulls the core down also pulling down the diaphragm. This is the intake stroke.
    Fuel is sucked into the cavity. When the solenoid core reaches the bottom of its
    stroke, the electrical contact is broken. A spring attached to the solenoid
    core pushes it back up, compressing the diaphragm or piston and forcing fuel
    out of the cavity. The cycle then repeats. The fuel pressure is determined by
    the strength of the return spring. Most standard fuel pumps are set at 3 to 7
    psi. Adjustable pressure pumps contain a screw to vary the compression on the
    spring and thus increase or decrease fuel pump pressure.

    In old carbureted engines, the carburetor float regulated the amount of fuel
    that could be admitted. If the float valve was closed, the spring did not have
    enough force to push the incompressible fuel past the float valve and the
    pump would stop cycling until more fuel was needed. In diesel engines the
    injection pump serves the same purpose. The fuel pressure in the primary fuel system
    is controlled by the strength of the electrical pump spring.

    The valves offer very little resistance to the free flow of fuel in the
    correct direction, hence the pump can be connected in series with another
    mechanical or electric pump. In fact most boaters simply connect an electric pump
    between the primary filter and the engine's mechanical lift pump without additional
    bypass valving. There is no harm in bypassing the electric pump. It is just
    not necessary in most situations. The only situation where a bypass would be
    advisable is if the electric pump were placed before the primary filter.

    Most electric pumps contain their own internal filter, usually a fine thimble
    sized or smaller screen. This is intended to stop large particles of grit
    from passing into the valves and causing them to leak. This filter can be blocked
    by a small plaque of algae. Manufacturers void the warranty if the pump is
    used without some form of filtering. To be honest, I've known of only a few
    cases where unfiltered fuel caused pump failure. It's just that it is hard to
    clean the pump's internal filter. To be on the safe side, if you are going to use
    a pump before the primary filter, fit a wire mesh screen filter in front of
    it. These are available at most small engine shops and cost just a couple of
    bucks. In the very unlikely event that particles flake off the fuel tank and clog
    the filter, you can replace it with a spare in a few minutes.

    Now for the downside of diaphragm pumps. They are very good at pushing fuel
    but very bad at sucking it. Most will self prime but not if they are required
    to lift fuel more than a couple of feet. This means that they should be
    installed at or near the low point of the fuel system. As the pumps age, the valves
    tend to leak a slight amount, letting pressurized fuel bleed back into the low
    pressure side. When you turn on an electric pump after a period of dormancy,
    it will cycle rapidly for 10 or so seconds to build pressure up to its
    regulated 3 to 7 lb. pressure. On an engine mounted mechanical diaphragm pump, you
    will have to crank the engine for a period of time. Not too good if you have a
    weak starting battery. This is another reason for having an electrical fuel pump
    in series with the mechanical pump. Turn it on for 15 seconds before you
    start the engine and in most cases the engine will start right up with only a
    second or two of cranking. At least my Perkins always does.

    Modern automobiles finesse the bleed down problem by installing vane or gear
    fuel pumps right in the gas tank. Turning on the ignition starts the pump
    which immediately pressurizes the 10 feet or so of fuel line between the tank and
    the engine. The pump, submerged in the fuel, has no priming problems and is
    cooled by the surrounding liquid. Fuel pressure is regulated by a bypass valve
    preset at the factory.

    Larry Z

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