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Re: T&T: Replacing Fuel Tanks

From: Dave Cooper (no email)
Date: Fri Feb 01 2008 - 14:13:58 EST

  • Next message: Robert Pelton: "T&T: Need Help Identifying Origin of Leak from Prop Shaft Area"

    <Mike wrote in part: Access to the tanks is very limited.? The tanks are
    iron or steel.? Any advice would be appreciated.>

    We just repaired one of our 475 gallon tanks which was leaking in 3 pinhole
    in the bottom.

    Our tanks are approximately 4 X 8 X 2. We cut 3 12" holes, one in each of
    the baffled sections in the side of the tank about 6" above the bottom.
    These holes we made for the SeaBuilt 14" access covers which we ordered from
    Seabuilt in Bellingham, Washington.

    These 12" holes allowed easy access to the inside floor of the tanks. We had
    sounded the bottom with a small flat hammer as found that the pinhole were
    at the bottom of craters. There were many small craters but 99% of them were
    very shallow. Only the ones leaking were deep.

    An intense cleaning of degreaser several times with a detergent and small
    brass wire brushes soon had the bottom very clean. A couple of wipe out with
    acetone and then alcohol had the bottom sparkling clean....well maybe not
    sparkling but clean.

    We applied a thinned coat of 100% solids no blush epoxy to the bare steel to
    making sure it flowed well into all the craters. Then a coat of slightly
    thickened with silica epoxy which filled the craters. This was followed by
    another coat thickened enough to flow well but coated the bottom of the tank
    perhaps a 1/16" or so. This was followed with two coats of Devoe epoxy tank
    liner. I ran all this epoxy, filler and paint 2/3" up the side to make sure
    the bottom seams were sealed too.

    Once it had all fully cured, about 7 days, we drilled the cover plate holes,
    bolted them on (they have inside and outside gaskets) and voila tank done
    and good for many years I suspect.

    I may have spent 30-40 hours on the work as it was work a bit and then leave
    it to dry etc...took 3 weeks from start to finish.

    BTW you either will need a positive air source to breath or a very good mask
    with the proper filter. Working with my head in the tank thru the 12" hole
    requires an up close and personal relationship with the tank. The solvents
    and the epoxy can be hazardous to your health. Also good ventilation keeps
    the flammables out of the boat. We have a positive air system in the engine
    room to keep the pressure up which lets the bad stuff or heat just be
    extracted.

    If the bottom of the tank is not wasted such that it likely to drop off I
    think opening a hole and doing what we did is a good method of getting more
    time out of the tanks for little money (I estimate we have less than a BU in
    the whole repair and most of that was for the access cover, shipping to
    Venezuela and customs duty (27%!). If the bottoms are wasted i.e. little
    sound metal left then this method won't work, IMO.

    We hope to change out our tanks to get more tankage but in case that doesn't
    happen I'm happy with this repair.

    As always YMMV.....
    Dave & Nancy
    Swan Song
    Roughwater 58
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  • Next message: Robert Pelton: "T&T: Need Help Identifying Origin of Leak from Prop Shaft Area"



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