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T&T: Swan Song Cruising update

From: Dave Cooper (no email)
Date: Sat Dec 01 2007 - 10:24:53 EST

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    Gday all, as many of you are hauled, winterized, storm watching or
    suffering boating withdrawal I thought Id bring you an update on Swan Songs
    recent adventures.

    After a couple of months of being marina bound and a haul-out for sundry
    projects we cast off on November 6th for 10 days of cruising the local area
    and Mochima National Park.

    This whole area is south of the trade winds at N10 degrees and is much more
    affected by the South American land mass. Near in there are daily sea
    breezes and nightly offshore ones. Nothing of concern as they are usually in
    the 10kts range tho we do see periods of 20+ kts for a bit. The seas are
    typically 1-2 ft unless we have a swell coming in from the north from some
    distant storm(s). Generally no rain but fro the possibility of thunderstorm
    on the coast. We did see one tornado in one that pasted 1 mile or so behind
    us. Daytime temps are in the upper 80s and nighttime down in the upper
    60s. Some haze and some perfectly clear 50 mile visibility days. Some of
    the water has 50+ ft visibility and other is 2 or less.

    We had planned to go out to La Tortuga which is 40 miles off the coast but
    we were delayed in getting our departure clearance as the Immigration person
    was out of town for 3 days. No back-up as the Manana syndrome is alive and
    well here as the rest of the Caribbean. So we headed east to Mochima NP
    which consists of 20 odd islands and deep fiords on a very irregular coast
    line. Many places where the bow would hit the cliff faces and yet wed be in
    200 of water. The geography is just astounding. A cross between the Painted
    Desert, Lake Superior or Maine coastline and deep jungle all in a few miles.
    Check out Nancys website, www.missnancysjournal.com
    <http://www.missnancysjournal.com/> in a couple of days for new pictures.

    In the 15 days of cruising we never once encountered an ATON. One needs to
    be on top of your navigation and theres no chance of using NAV mode or
    routes. Most of the time we were either 1/4 to half mile from land or well
    inland according to the C-map and slightly less so on the Navionics charts.
    Some older paper charts were more accurate and other less so. A bit
    different than cruising the well discovered and charted bits of the world.

    We went aground on a spire in Laguna Grande and this after wed checked the
    area with our tender the day before. A soft grounding as I was at idle
    working our way out of a delightful anchorage. Swan Song sat on top of about
    a 20 ft piece of land 3-4 ft below the murky water. A quick survey around
    Swan Song from on deck , a little bow thruster to turn the boat 90 degrees
    and we were free. We went back later with the dinghy and this spire is
    surrounded by 20-50 of water, oblong and no more than 20 long by 10 wide.
    No damage was done other than some bottom paint removed. We didnt have our
    forward looking PC180 Interphase on as I have a cable problem with one of
    the sensors but it would have saved us from this from out past experience.
    Better get that back working pronto if we are to continue to explore outside
    the box ;-)

    Laguna Grande is a very arid area much more like the desert surrounded by
    water. Mangroves line the shore in places and are backed by cactus on the
    shore. Room for hundreds of boats to anchor and we only saw three who were
    clustered to avoid the pirates that abound here. They wanted to be within
    shotgun range of each other to feel safe. We try to be as far from anyone as
    we can. Hmmmmmm, must be different thinking and feeling on Swan Song from
    the other boats.

    We stopped for some fuel in Cumana but the Marina Cumanagoto was out of
    diesel. This shortage of fuel is becoming more frequent here. The price is
    the same, US 3 = cents gallon but the fuel is just not available. A shortage
    of refining capacity in Venezuela is reported to be the fault. In any case
    we have close to 500 gallons, so not a worry at this time.

    We then went to Mochima and anchored for two nights in a small Bahia aka
    bay, I was up at 2 AM for a head call and saw something out the portside in
    the water. As I was still sleeping I went back to bed and then asked myself
    what I saw. Got back up and put the big spot on and found a large, 8-10,
    snake swimming around Swan Song. Appeared to be an Anaconda but didnt
    really see it close enough to tell. In any case it once again reinforces the
    edict we have on Swan Song.never enter the food chain at night by getting
    in the water as you arent very high up on it ;-)

    The next day we went to another Bahia and anchored in the usual 40 of
    water. Quite windy so just hung out as the water was to rough for
    snorkeling. Next day it clamed down and we found the best snorkeling that
    weve ever seek in all the years of being on the water. Far better than even
    Bonaire. Nothing is dead and all vibrant and beautiful. There is a bay that
    has hundreds of dolphins which you can swim with if they are not feeding. We
    had one family run with us for almost an hour. Awesome and only 25 miles
    from a major population center..the contrasts here in Venezuela are
    amazing.

    We were boarded for the first time here while in the Park by a mixture of
    Park Polica and regular Polica even tho none had uniforms they all had
    badges and guns in their pockets or waistbandsno holsters. After working
    thru the usual paperworkpassports, visas, boat papers, Zarpes, Park
    Permits, two of them asked permission to search the boat. BTW, they also
    asked if we had guns, sear guns or anything else that we should tell them
    about. Nancy accompanied them on the search which was reasonable thorough.
    She mentioned later that one of them seemed to linger longer in her lingerie
    draw than others ;-)

    A soft drink, handshakes all around and they left happy. Were happy as as
    much as a boarding is a PITA it also helps that they know us and shows a
    level of patrol that is good for the cruising community, I think.

    I did notice some unusual wave activity on Thursday in the late afternoon
    and mentioned it to our guests. We found out after we returned to the Marina
    yesterday that there was a 7.4 earthquake just off Dominica. It certainly
    did shake the sea and this is what we felt thru the waves a few hours later.
    A micro Tsunami, if you will.

    So to summarize the two trips and15 days:

    207 NM

    33 engine hours

    80 genset hours

    fuel used ~155 gals

    Anchored out 15 days in 7 different anchorages.

    Cheers

    Dave & Nancy

    Swan Song

    Roughwater 58

    Caribbean Cruise '07
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