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Re: T&T: Stainless Steel Thru Hulls, need SS Valves

From: (no name) (no email)
Date: Mon Nov 05 2007 - 17:14:47 EST

  • Next message: Richard Persohn: "Re: T&T: Tipping Mechanics"

    Mike said :

    >Here is the page on Groco's site.
    >http://www.groco.net/CD-07/GROCO%20CAT/Catalog-Brwsr/26.htm
    >
    >This a really neat solution for bronze or SS thru hulls.
    >The valve can be replaced with the boat in the water, a cork is pushed
    >in from the inside or outside.
    >THe flange spreads the load out.
    >
    >And the URL takes you to the specs and pictures.

    Mike's post is of interest to me as I am contemplating replacing some ball
    valves that are probably about 13 years old. At present I have Bronze
    thruhulls which have parallel / straight threads. They are fastened to the
    hull with a nut on a "bedding block". The thru hull is then are screwed
    onto bronze? ball valves which most certainly have tapered threads - not a
    perfect match, although commonly used. I have been "pulling my hair out"
    in trying to come up with the most efficient way of making it better.

    Mike makes it sound simple and easy - I wish!. BUT I believe there is a
    little more to the project. I believe the flange of the seacock has to
    mate up with a "bedding block" (not shown) since its' threads are NOT
    tapered a watertight seal is dependent on the flange seating. For this to
    occur the length of the thru hull threads cannot be too long and may have
    to be cut down OR a thicker bedding block used. I think one would have to
    have to the the existing system apart to detemine this. Also if the
    orientation of the ball valve handle is important a "dry fitting" would be
    a prudent step to take.

    In my case this requires removing the thruhull nut (probably disturbing
    the bedding) and possibly re-orienting the thru hull and maybe removing it
    to shorten the threads. I don't think a job to be done with just a cork in
    the thru hull.

    If I am making this too complicated please educate me.

    BTW I had seen that one manufacturer of thru hulls uses a "combination"
    thread i.e. the end few threads are tapered - I don't know if this just
    means they are gound down a bit. At any rate they would provide a more
    secure attachment than the straight to tapered does, but I want to replace
    ball valves not thru hulls.

    Your comments appreciated

    John
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  • Next message: Richard Persohn: "Re: T&T: Tipping Mechanics"



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