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Re: T&T: Winterizing a boat

From: (no name) (no email)
Date: Mon Oct 01 2007 - 10:05:44 EDT

  • Next message: Wesley & Patty Eldred: "Re: T&T: Winterizing a boat"

     I know that it is a strange topic to bring up in these Dog Days of summer
    but some T&T listees are concerned about the necessity of winterizing boats
    stored above the Mason-Dixon line. Here is my take on the subject. I've lived
    in
    New York and Boston, the Chesapeake Bay area, Georgia, and Florida and had
    boats in all locations.

    Winterizing is not really necessary for boats stored in the coastal Carolinas
    and south. Even if the temperature drops below freezing, it takes about 24
    hours of sub-freezing weather to do any damage. Worry about winterizing if you
    can build a snowman and have it last more than a day without melting. Worry
    warts will winterize in North Carolina if the boat is stored on the hard.

    Winterizing is necessary for boats left out of the water in the Chesapeake
    Bay area. Cold snaps lasting several days are common in the Bay area,
    especially
    in the northern reaches. One of the coldest days I ever experienced was in
    Washington, DC. The external plumbing in older houses burst and left quite a
    cleanup mess. I recall that it was during the week of Reagan's inauguration.

    For boats left from Virginia north, winterizing is an absolute must.

    Winterizing itself is a simple, although slightly time consuming task. The
    basic philosophy is to replace all liquids with those of lower freezing
    points.
    Here is the drill.

    1. Empty all water and holding tanks. Top off the fuel tanks. Drain the
    onboard plumbing. For those boats where the plumbing cannot be entirely
    emptied,
    put a few gallons of pink non-toxic antifreeze in the empty water tanks and
    pump
    it through the lines until the water runs pink out of the faucets. Don't
    forget the water heater and the accumulator (if your boat has one). I usually
    change the oil at this time to prevent any residual acids from doing damage.
    It's
    probably just for my peace of mind.

    2. Remove the engine(s) pressure cap and test the water with an antifreeze
    tester. If the freezing temperature is above -30 degrees, add enough straight
    antifreeze until it gets that low. Run the engine for a few minutes to mix the
    cooling solution. The further north you go, the more important this is. I've
    gone XC skiing in temperatures colder than -30 degrees on numerous occasions
    in
    upstate New York, in Vermont, and in Canada. Brrrr.

    3. Flush the boat's raw cooling water system with a 40% mixture of automotive
    antifreeze. I put the antifreeze mixture in a 5 gallon bucket (two gallons of
    antifreeze to three gallons of water) then, attaching a length of garden hose
    to the raw water pump intake, I run the engine for a minute or so to suck it
    into manifold, heat exchanger and waterlift muffler. I've installed a T
    fitting in the intake line after the intake stopcock to make the job easier.
    If the
    boat is on stands, collect the discharged antifreeze/water mixture in a bucket
    as it emerges from the exhaust or the raw water discharge thru hull. Use it
    in the next step.

    4. Flush a gallon of so of the antifreeze mixture through each head. The
    mixture will go into the holding tank where it won't do any harm and may
    prevent
    any residual water from freezing up.

    5. Remove all canned goods and any potables which can freeze. This includes
    all wines, juices, sodas, etc. If you don't, you will find a mess when you
    return in the Spring. Be sure to empty the refrigerator and freezer if you
    have
    one. t's a good excuse for a boat leaving party.

    6. Remove all delicate and or expensive portable electronics that you can't
    bear to lose or have stolen. Take home digital cameras, binoculars, hand held
    GPSs and VHFs, etc. No matter how carefully guarded, boat yards are a magnet
    for theft.

    7. If your yard permits, use a battery maintainer to keep batteries in good
    condition. My boat yard doesn't permit unattended electrical connections in
    winter storage so in past years I've placed a 5 watt battery maintainer solar
    cell in a position where it catches a few hours of sunlight every day. Even
    during extended periods of snow cover, it works well enough to keep the
    batteries
    in good condition.

    8. Clean the boat so you will be pleasantly surprised in the Spring. Cover
    with tarps or have the boat shrink wrapped. If in the snow belt, New Jersey
    north, I prefer the latter. Shrink wrap sheds snow very well and prevents
    water
    intrusion from snow melt.

    The whole process took me about 8 hours the first time. Now I can do it in
    about 4 hours because I know what I'm doing. I use about 6 gallons of
    non-toxic
    pink antifreeze and about 4 gallons of automotive antifreeze. I buy it at
    WalMart where it is about half the price as in a marine store. Shrink wrapping
    costs about $12 a foot in my area. Expensive, but it is well worth it.

    You can have winterizing done by the yard for several hundred dollars but
    it's such an inherently simple job that I'd rather spend the money on a few
    gourmet meals and a good bottle of Scotch. Alternately, you can leave the boat
    in a
    heated winter storage shed and avoid the winterizing process entirely. But
    that's a good deal more expensive - and there is always the possibility that
    the
    shed's heating system will fail. It has happened on more than one occasion.

    Larry Z

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