Next message: Scott H.E. Welch: "Re: T&T: Advantages and Disadvantages of Cold Molded Epoxy Hull vs."
Not to be too contrary, but if you can't see it through the clear bowl, are
you sure it's there?
Anyway, the way I clean mine is to remove the filter. You can then see down
into the bowl. I use a 1 liter laboratory wash bottle filled with diesel to
hose the entire housing down and clean all that stuff out. If you haven't
used one of these, it's a polyethylene bottle with a very fine nozzle at the
top. Sprays a very tiny stream of liquid. This works great to rinse all the
crud out. I've never had to disassemble the housings to get them very clean.
You can get these bottles either on the web at places like Fisher
Scientific, or locally if you have a good lab supply place. I keep three on
board... one filled with diesel for cleaning filter housings, etc., one with
Naphtha for cleaning oily things, and one with alcohol for cleaning other
stuff and final cleaning of teak before varnishing.
Keith
_____
"Remember in elementary school, you were told that in case of fire you have
to line up quietly in a single file line from smallest to tallest. What is
the logic in that? What, do tall people burn slower?" --Warren Hutcherson
----- Original Message -----
From: "ron barr" <>
>A surveyor siad there was some algae in the bowls of my racor 900's. Now I
> can't actually see it and of course it is easy to drain off any water
> collected, which I do periodically.
>
> However I am curious if there was a coating of some algae on the bowl how
> does one actually get at the bowl itself to clean it? I assume it must
> separate at the bowl ring - is this a simple grab it and turn operation?
> Naturally given the cost of these units I am anxious not to crack
> anything!
> Anybody dealt with this situation?
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