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Re: T&T: Racor Pressure Gauge

From: thomas barnes (no email)
Date: Sun Oct 01 2006 - 08:27:25 EDT

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    When we bought our 78 Mainship it had been setting for a long time with the tanks less than half full. I knew there was grud in the tanks. Was thinking about having the fuel polished but decided to use the two Racor 500 filters in series to do the job.
       
      For the first half of the Loop the gauges, I put one on each filter housing but really only needed one, did their job quiet well. I would see the vacuum starting to increase and knew it was time to change the filters. Before I installed the gauges the engine did shut down on me one time. But...... I noticed the filters had to be pretty well clogged up before the needle would move.
       
      I had gone through a dozen filters during that earlier time but since then have not seen the needle flicker. I tought they were shot. By accident I found out if you forget to open the fuelline shut off after changing filters and start the engine you will notice the vacuum increasing. If you can turn it on right away there's no problem. If not your engine will starve for fuel and shut down. That's where the fun begins.

    Jeffrey Siegel <> wrote:
    > In draining the Racors last week, the usual
    > dark dirty fuel came from each, plus a few drops of water,
    > making me think there should have some pressure on the gauge.
    >

    I'm not convinced that crud in the bottom of the Racor when draining it has
    anything to do with the vacuum value on the gauge. Of course, at some point
    it would but from normal use, I've found that they are not related. I think
    that the crud collects down there and grows from water that is separated in
    the bowl, not by the filter element getting clogged.

    I drain my twin dual-900's about twice a year (usually right before leaving
    on any major cruise). I always get about the same amount of stuff out of
    them - maybe a cup or two before it runs clear. I only change the filter
    element when the gauge reaches about 7-10 while being used. I don't change
    them regularly any longer - I let the gauge tell me when to change it. I've
    found that the gauge usually reads 0 or 1. When it starts to move (3+) it
    only takes about 10-20 engine hours for it to get to 7-10. Then it's time
    to change the element.

    I also switch between the dual Racors often. This let's me know that I
    always have a good second set ready to flick into action with a twist of the
    value.

    ================
    Jeffrey Siegel
    M/V aCappella
    DeFever 53PH
    W1ACA/WDB4350
    Castine, Maine
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