Next message: Steve Sipe: "Re: T&T: Vented loop"
Where most decks fail is not with the teak, but with the underlayment
beneath the teak. And that failure is often the result of freshwater getting
into the underlayment via the usual list of culprits like leaking fittings,
fasteners, etc., and causing the underlayment to rot. By washing the deck
down with saltwater, the saltwater goes where ever the freshwater can go,
even into the underlayment. And saltwater deters rot.
That's why wooden boats kept in salt water often outlive their freshwater
counterparts. Of course metal work takes more of a beating in saltwater,
but that's a different story.
Ted Hugger
GB32-126
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [mailto:trawlers-
> ] On Behalf Of David Smyth
> Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2006 1:27 PM
> To: Trawler world
> Subject: Re: T&T: teak decks, was teak sealers
>
> On Aug 2, 2006, at 6:54 AM, Brent Hodges wrote:
>
> >> most of these boat owners and maintenance professionals
> >> insist that the best way to maintain teak decks is to wash
> >> them down with only seawater every 1-2 weeks; (endsnip)
> >
> > I hear this over and over and I'm confused as to how to do this. On
> > my boat,
> > an Albin with LOTS of teak including decks all around as well as the
> > sundeck, I always rinse the boat down after a cruise to remove the
> > salt from
> > the isenglass, as well as the boat as a whole. Can't stand that
> > salt feel
> > and look on the hull sides, hand rails, etc. SO, if you wash the
> > decks down
> > with salt water, now you have salt residue on the hull sides and
> > everything
> > else that got splashed in the process. So, you rinse that off with
> > fresh
> > water and remove the salt from the decks. See where this is going?
> > How do
> > you folks that follow this regiment of always rinsing the decks
> > with salt
> > water handle this?
>
> I have heard the "salt water" story for a long time. I took a year
> off and
> sailed a Swan 65 with teak decks from California to Europe. When the
> boat was underway, of course a lot of salt water came across the deck.
>
> Whenever I could, I washed the deck with fresh water (no brushing).
>
> Based on this one year, I think it does not need to be salt water.
> But it does need to simply be water, not pressure washed, and no brush.
>
> On many other boats for many years, unfinished (no varnish, no oil)
> teak bits such as cap rails, hand rails, cockpit seating surfaces,
> cockpit
> grating, and so on, has also led me to believe that washing with fresh
> water does no damage. The teak gets clean, weathers nicely, does not
> split, and seems to last forever.
>
> I have used bleach a few times, and I think its not needed. I like the
> grey better than the almost white.
>
> If any of you ever get over to Honolulu, take a look at the
> Vita Mia. This is a 1930 or so Stephens that's all teak above the
> shearline.
> Its used for day charters (parties).
>
> Some decks are left bare and just washed. They are standing up
> very, very well. Nearly everything else, including the deck where
> people
> dance and eat and drink, is varnished, and also standing up very well.
> They never remove the varnish, they lightly sand and add more coats
> on a regular basis (every 2-4 months).
>
> I've been told that this is the way the boat has been maintained
> forever:
> In many places the base coat of varnish is original.
>
> David Smyth
>
>
> (805) 501-1406 cell
> (818) 393-0275 office
> (818) 353-0275 home office
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