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From: Pascal Gademer (no email)
Date: Fri Jun 02 2006 - 09:05:20 EDT
ideally, bilge pumps should not be connected to a battery switch so that
they are left on all the time. in most installs, there shoudl be 2 feeds,
one thru the main panel and the manual switch and the other one as direct
for the batteries as possible, with a fuse, to the float switch.
if you cant' trace the wires from the float switc, check your batteres
terminal for fused wires or maybe from the always hot terminal of your
battery switches.
how about the builder ? they shoudl be able to get you copies.
pascal
miami, fl
70 hatteras 53MY
----- Original Message -----
From: "william osborne" <>
To: <>
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 8:16 PM
Subject: T&T: Pump wiring
> Hi All,
>
> I have stupidly lost the blue line wiring diagram we got with the boat
> when
> we purchased it. The boat is a DF44 hull number 150. Does anyone have a
> wiring diagram for a DF44 near this hull number and if so can I get a copy
> of yours. I will happily pay coping fees and shipping as well as a gift
> for
> your trouble (or a fine for my stupidly).
>
> The reason this is coming up now is I had a bilge pump stuck on this
> weekend
> due to a brush being stuck under the float switch. I could not turn it
> off;
> I shut off the DC breaker for that bilge pump nothing, I shut off all the
> DC
> breakers for bilge pumps nothing, I turn off the main battery switch in
> the
> DC panel nothing. This thing has its own path to the battery and I am very
> concerned that it is not fused. Any ideas on this subject?
>
> Thanks,
> Bill and Mary Anne
> DF 44 #150
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