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From: (no name) (no email)
Date: Wed May 31 2006 - 00:15:41 EDT
Ron Barr wrote:
1. Any reason why one shouldn't use GE 100% silicone caulking at
Wallyworld's price of $3 v. West's "Marine" Silicone for $8.50 a tube?
2. What's the easiest way to remove silicone after caulking an item eg: port
or something like that -- aside from razor blades??
Reply:
#1 You want to brag to your friends that you are able to pay a lot more than them for your caulking? Thanks for the WallyWorld tip. I've been paying about $4.50 from my supplier.
Look at the milspec # on each tube, probably the same, most likely GE or other major player rebranded product. GE II is a high quality acetic cure rtv silicone. The kitchen branded stuff has mildewcide. For high temp Bostik ht red is good to 600 deg.
#2 Don't put on material you will need to remove. Don't tool with your fingers. Use 1.5" masking tape on each side of the joint. Tool the joint immediately with an appropriately sized strip of
plastic spreader cut from the yellow spreaders commonly found. Work when temperatures are cool to prevent premature skinning. Pull the tape off immediately. Really pretty easy to get good results.
No good way to get the stuff without rubbing it off or lacquer thinner where it won't ruin the finish.
Mike M. recently posted a link relating to adhesive bonded windows, but there didn't appear to be any interest on-list. I recently set 15 of the windows in my boat with this method. If anybody has any interest, contact me off-list
Regards,
John
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