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From: Mike Maurice (no email)
Date: Wed Feb 01 2006 - 00:47:23 EST
0131 8:00 pm 26.9 23.9 11.4 N/A 12.1 5.0 N/A STEEP 8.8
0131 7:00 pm 27.6 19.4 11.4 N/A 19.7 10.0 N/A STEEP 8.6
0131 6:00 pm 32.8 - - N/A 32.8 10.8 N/A STEEP 9.1
0131 5:00 pm 24.6 20.0 10.8 N/A 14.4 5.9 N/A STEEP 7.9
0131 4:00 pm 24.9 - - N/A 24.9 10.0 N/A STEEP 8.0
0131 3:00 pm 21.3 0.7 16.0 N/A 21.3 9.1 N/AVERY_STEEP 7.3
0131 2:00 pm 17.4 11.2 9.1 N/A 13.1 7.7 N/A STEEP 6.7
0131 1:00 pm 16.1 6.2 10.8 N/A 14.8 7.1 N/A AVERAGE 6.7
013112:00 pm 13.8 7.9 10.8 N/A 11.2 7.7 N/AVERY_STEEP 6.4
013111:00 am 12.8 8.5 11.4 N/A 9.5 5.9 N/A AVERAGE 6.4
013110:00 am 12.5 7.5 11.4 N/A 9.8 6.7 N/A AVERAGE 6.1
This is the summary for the buoy(46050) off of Newport Oregon.
Starting at 10 am this morning.
The significant wave height is 12.5, the swell is 7.5, the period is
11.4 seconds. The wind wave height is 9.8, period 6.7 seconds.
Overall: steepness AVERAGE and period of 6.1.
Notice that at 3 pm it is very steep with heights of over 20 feet and
period around 7.3 seconds.
That by 7 pm, the overall period is up to 8.6 seconds with heights
around 30 feet.
The wind was around 40 gusting 50 during most of the period from 3 pm to 7 pm.
The buoy just off the Columbia River Entrance has similar numbers.
As the storm peters out, the periods should lengthen and the steepness go down.
Imagine getting caught out in something like this. Notice how the
jump in wave heights in 5 hours from about 10 to 20 feet. Keep in
mind that these number only include the bulk of the wave spectrum.
The prediction tables indicate at least one wave 3 times the average
height every 4000 waves. At one wave every 7 seconds that's one such
wave(3X) every 8 hours or so.
Pay attention to the wave period of 6.1 seconds at 10 am. That is one
very short period, especially for a wave over 12 feet high. This has
been one very rough ocean today.
Here is the URL
http://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/station_page.php?station=46050
Mike
Capt. Mike Maurice
Tualatin(Portland), Oregon
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