Next message: Terry Etapa: "Re: T&T: Conversions - input?"
Gary Brobst wrote:
>Pascal,
>You need to review your entire system and how your loads are
>distributed. I don't see where adding another 30 amp service is needed if
the
>loads are properly distributed. You state that when using your
>generator, you pull 50 amps from one leg and 20-30 amps from the other for
a total of
>70-80 amps.
I agree with Gary about getting your leg loads balanced if, for no other
reason, to get longer life out of your genset. They do NOT like being
imbalanced. When we designed the electrical system for Ladyhawke, we speced
an 11 kW 120/240v genset, and it was installed. When we took a good look at
how imbalanced our loads would be (we wanted a lot of stuff on the inverter
side) we opted to rewire the genset to straight 120v and put in a buck and
boost transformer to run the washer/dryer which was the only thing on the
boat that required 220v.
Our DC system is primarily 24v with the few 12v items being powered through
a 24 to 12v converter/charger, backed up by a 4D battery to handle any
surges. Our house bank consists of 12 8D AGMs. Our inverter/charger is a
Trace 4024 which has a 120 amp 24v charger. Two Leece-Neville 120 amp 24v
alternators are mounted on our single Cummins. On a typical day after an
afternoon and night on the hook, we start the genset just before engine
start. Once underway we further load up the genset with the water maker and
that usually runs for about 2 hours until the tanks are full. By then,
unless we've spent 2 nights without charging at all, the genset is turned
off because the amp load from the charger is negligible. If we run 4 hours,
our battery bank is charged to 95-97%. In our case, that's important because
AGMs need to be topped up almost every discharge cycle.
Mike O'Reilly
Ladyhawke - Sunnfjord 54
Portland, OR
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