|
|
|
|
|||||
|
||||||
From: Faure, Marin (no email)
Date: Thu Dec 16 2004 - 17:20:31 EST
>Personally, I can't imagine anyone trying to break it out by pulling
backwards, but I suppose it would be a good "shackle test". ;)
I think a lot of people are not understanding the "pulling backwards"
method of anchor breakout. They seem to think that this technique
involves putting the boat in reverse and simply backing down on the
deployed anchor and rode until the anchor pulls free. First, if this
technique does anything it will simply drag the anchor and maybe even
reset it. Second, it will put a huge strain on the windless, shackles,
cleats, and whatever else is involved in attaching the boat end of the
rode to the boat. The anchor is supposed to hold the boat against wind
and current, so there's no reason to think it won't hold the boat
against reversed engines.
The "pulling backwards" technique as described in things like "The
Complete Book of Anchoring and Mooring" goes basically as follows. Put
the boat in forward as the anchor rode is taken up with the winch until
the boat is directly over the anchor with the rode coming straight up to
the boat with no slack in the rode. Secure the anchor rode to a cleat
using a snubber of some sort so no strain is put on the winch or bow
pulpit structure. Then put the boat in reverse for a moment with the
engines at idle. This will lever the anchor up out a "normal" bottom.
If its caught in rocks on a cable, other techniques will have to be used
to get it free.
According to the people I know who use this technique (which is pretty
much everyone around here I've talked to about it) if all the slack is
out of the rode when you put the boat in reverse, the initial levering
action will be more or less the same going backwards as it is going
forwards.
As I have stated before, the reason for going backward to lever the
anchor up instead of forward is to eliminate the possibility of striking
the forefoot of the hull with the rode. If you use a nylon rode I
guess it doesn't matter. But if like us you use an all-chain rode, some
pretty intense cosmetic damage can be done to the hull. If your boat
has a well-raked bow and/or a relatively long bow pulpit, the chances
are that you won't put the rode into the forefoot by going forward. But
if your boat is like ours, with an almost plumb bow and a relatively
short pulpit, there is a very good chance the rode will contact the
forefoot as you move forward and the anchor comes out. It happened to
us once, which is why we now use the recommended procedure of moving
backwards to lever the anchor out., And judging from the scarring of
the stem at the waterline, it would appear that previous owners used the
"go forward" technique, too.
The method Mike Maurice mentioned of letting the boat's natural pitching
movement in the water ease the anchor out of the bottom is probably the
best if the boat moves enough to do this. But as Mike went on to say,
there are times and reasons to use any number of "de-anchoring"
techniques. No single one is perfect for all situations. But I've been
seeing posts where the writer obviously seemed to think the "backing
down" method involved leaving the deployed scope out and simply powering
backwards until the anchor pulled out. This is not the case.
_______________________________________________
http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers-and-trawlering
To Unsubscribe send email to
Include the word Unsubscribe (and nothing else) in the subject or body of the message.
Trawlers and Trawlering, T and T, TrawlersandTrawlering, and TandT are trademarks of Water World International. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
|