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From: Kerry Nelson (no email)
Date: Mon Nov 01 2004 - 14:25:42 EST
I am in the process of redoing the windows on my 1976 42' Californian. Wooden
frames semi-floated in a plywood and fiberglass glass house with plenty of
leaking and some rot. I agree with Michael that it is a labor intensive job
but to do it right you must pull the window. Injecting epoxy may buy some time
but if with almost all boats with plywood houses that I have seen the exposed
plywood in the window opening was not sealed when built and has to be sealed
IMO. Only way to do that is to pull the window. The windows I have completed
look to be good for a long time.
I have not read the info in the archives thoughtfully provided by Micheal and
others but one thing I have had success with is to shim the window out from
the frame when resetting the glass in place. Use small shims the thickness you
want the bead of sealer to be and reset the glass using wooden straps on the
outside to hold the glass in place while the sealer sets up. After the sealant
sets pull the shims and fill the space with sealer. Trim the sealant around
the inside (painters tape prior to rebedding may help make the task easier)
and replace the outer trim with sealer (again painters tape may help the clean
up) waiting to snug it down until after the sealant has set. I have used 5200
as a sealant and the only down side I have found so far is it is a pain to
trim the inside joint if you let it set up too long before cleaning it up. I
also like to have wood (properly protecting of course) in the cabin wall where
the trim screws are as I feel it will hold a screw better than glass/epoxy.
Kerry
>There is a lot written on this in the archives. I know since I wrote a lot
>of it after rebedding 6 stainless ABI ports and 6 pilot house windows on my
>Portsmouth Downeast 30. The classical way to do this is to pull the whole
port
>or window, frame and all so that all that is left is the cored or glassed
>plywood walls. This will most likely be rotten and rotted inside. You have
to
>clean ALL of this out. All of it, and dry it out well. I put alcohol in
mine
>and put a fan on them for days at a time. Then you need to expoy them
>completely. Add adhesive filler to the epoxy for strength and adhesion.
Make sure
>that you have removed all the coring or plywood for at least an inch below
where
>each screw goes in. You will then have an opening that is solid epoxy at
>least an inch or two deep and probably deeper if you consider the places
where you
>cleaned out rot. Do this carefully, not putting in too much so that you
>don't get too much heat when the epoxy kicks off.
>Once you have new port and window openings, you need to fair them in
>carefully, make them uniform and smooth and be sure that the window frames
and >port
>frames fit them with no gaps or voids. You then drill your screw holes,
apply a
>generous amount of 4200 to the whole opening and insert the window frame or
>port frame. Screw in the frame but do not tighten it up all the way. Leave
>several turns out so that the 4200 will cure. Once cured, then screw the
frames
>in the rest of the way.
>Long and laborious process. It took me over 2 months off and on to get mine
>done and I worked hard on them every day. The benefit is that I have nary a
>leak even in the worst weather. The boat is dry as a bone and I have no more
>blemishes on my interior teak.
>best
>Michael Cannon
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