Next message: Dan Stone: "RE: T&T: Dinghy/Tender"
There is a lot written on this in the archives. I know since I wrote a lot
of it after rebedding 6 stainless ABI ports and 6 pilot house windows on my
Portsmouth Downeast 30. The classical way to do this is to pull the whole port
or window, frame and all so that all that is left is the cored or glassed
plywood walls. This will most likely be rotten and rotted inside. You have to
clean ALL of this out. All of it, and dry it out well. I put alcohol in mine
and put a fan on them for days at a time. Then you need to expoy them
completely. Add adhesive filler to the epoxy for strength and adhesion. Make sure
that you have removed all the coring or plywood for at least an inch below where
each screw goes in. You will then have an opening that is solid epoxy at
least an inch or two deep and probably deeper if you consider the places where you
cleaned out rot. Do this carefully, not putting in too much so that you
don't get too much heat when the epoxy kicks off.
Once you have new port and window openings, you need to fair them in
carefully, make them uniform and smooth and be sure that the window frames and port
frames fit them with no gaps or voids. You then drill your screw holes, apply a
generous amount of 4200 to the whole opening and insert the window frame or
port frame. Screw in the frame but do not tighten it up all the way. Leave
several turns out so that the 4200 will cure. Once cured, then screw the frames
in the rest of the way.
Long and laborious process. It took me over 2 months off and on to get mine
done and I worked hard on them every day. The benefit is that I have nary a
leak even in the worst weather. The boat is dry as a bone and I have no more
blemishes on my interior teak.
best
Michael Cannon
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