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TWL: RE: (longish) response on MARINE GRADE stoves

From: C. Marin Faure (no email)
Date: Sun Dec 07 2003 - 01:39:28 EST

  • Next message: Frank Bales: "TWL: RE: beore you buy a " camper" stove for your boat"

    From: "Philip J. Rosch" <>
    Subject: TWL: RE: response on MARINE GRADE stoves

    >If insurance companies won't pay claims on boats that don't meet all the
    ABYC standards, there are a lot of cruisers in deep trouble.

    I can't speak for insurance policies other than the one we have, but we get
    our insurance through a broker. The broker has a questionaire they want
    filled in before they will shop around for the best policy. One of the
    questions asks if the stove/oven burners are equipped with safety
    shut-offs. So while it may be that some insurance companies don't care,
    the fact that the insurance broker asks this on their basic questionaire
    about the boat would indicate that some insurance companies do care.

    >If I can add thermocouples to a commodity stove, I'd certainly look into
    >doing it, but I won't pay $1,500 for a stove I can buy for $500.

    I suspect adding the thermocouples is the easy part. Based on my
    examination of the construction of our Force 10, it appears that it's just
    a matter of drilling a hole in the correct spot to insert a thermocouple so
    the tip is in the flame of the burner. The tricky bit would be to add the
    solenoid valves that the thermocouples actuate. These are mounted on the
    gas supply manifold, and I don't know what's involved in installing them.
    Obvously their mounting has to be leakproof. The Force 10 burner solenoids
    are incorporated into the burner control valves on the manifold. The
    oven/broiler control valve does not have a built-in solenoid. Instead, the
    safety solenoid for the oven and broiler burners is mounted to the gas
    manifold a few inches upstream of the control valve.

    But I'd want to be pretty sure of what I was doing before I started
    drilling holes in the gas manifold of a propane stove to install the
    shut-off solenoids. Unless one was experienced at working with gas piping
    and hardware, it might be a job for a professional. The parts are probably
    not too expensive, but the labor cost could start the total price creeping
    on up there toward the purchase price of a purpose-made marine stove.

    But as long as insurance issues don't preclude the use of a "non-marine"
    propane stove, as long as the stove is well made and the propane system
    feeding it is designed for maximum safety- bottle mounted to where leaks
    will vent overboard, shutoff valve between the bottle and appliance(s),
    etc.-, and as long as you operate the propane system and stove with a fair
    degree of common sense, then I don't see a problem with using an RV-type
    stove on a boat.

    Our boat was 25 years old when we bought it and it had a Magic Chef
    4-burner stove/oven installed. I'm guessing it was the original unit on
    the boat, but I could be wrong. We discovered the first time we used it
    that some of the burner valves had worn to the point of leaking even when
    they were turned off. Not leaking a lot, but leaking nevertheless. Since
    parts for this long-out-of-production stove were extremely difficult to
    get, and since the stove had to be removed to fix it anyway, it was a
    pretty easy choice to simply replace it. If the Magic Chef had not had the
    leaky valve problem, we would have continued to use it. But we don't
    regret at all our decision to replace it with a new Force 10. The fact
    that this stove has a safety shutoff system is a nice bonus, although we
    take the attitude that the system won't work when it's actually needed, so
    we operate the stove accordingly which among other things means we never
    leave it on without one of us in the cabin with it.

    _______________
    C. Marin Faure
    GB36-403 "La Perouse"
    Bellingham, WA
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