|
|
|
|
|||||
|
||||||
Subject: TWL: Removal of Damaged Screws (was Re: To experienced woodworkers: HELP!)
From: Gary and Vanette (gabrobst@XXX.XXX)
Date: Thu Feb 06 2003 - 08:55:41 EST
I ran into a different problem when replacing the screws on our
rubrail and found a solution that might be of benefit to others with a
similar problem. I had 10-15 bronze screws that broke off right under
the surface of the wood leaving the point still embedded in the wood.
What I did for the #12 and #10 screws in question was to purchase some
1/4" light wall brass tubing at the hardware store. I cut the tubing
into 3" pieces and used them in an electric drill running in reverse.
A slight nick on the end of the tubing helped cut into the wood. It
will take one 3" piece of tubing for each screw as the end of the
screw will be firmly imbedded it the piece of tubing. The result was
a 1/4" hole in the teak which I later drilled out to 3/8" and plugged.
As a follow up to the discussion regarding the Sears screw removal
bits, I also have had a 50-50 success rate with removing screws with
damaged heads.
Gary Brobst
m/v Waypoint
49 Defever RPH
Currently at Oak Harbor Marina
Slidell, LA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Stone" <stonejd@XXX.XXX>
> I remember seeing on TV some screwdriver bits advertised which
seemed to
> have sharp edges with points to dig in and hold for removing
difficult
> screws (? a Bob Villa special). Anyone familiar with these?
_______________________________________________
http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/trawler-world-list
To Unsubscribe send email to trawler-world-list-request@XXX.XXX
Include the word "Unsubscribe" (and nothing else) in the subject or body of the message.
|