![]() |
|
|||||
|
||||||
Subject: TWL: Re: Re: Replacing windows
From: Andy Woods (awoods@XXX.XXX)
Date: Sat Dec 28 2002 - 06:51:39 EST
Hello All,
I have removed a lot of plugs on my old boat, and have tried all of the
methods mentioned with mixed results. My biggest problem has been damaging
the screw under the plug with either the drill bit or the drywall or self
tapping screw used trying to remove the plug. With these old bronze screws
it doesn't take much to damage the screwdriver slot, as the slot is not very
deep. Once damaged you have a heck of a time getting the screw out. I also
have damaged the surrounding wood because the teak plug might pop out
bringing with it the varnish that is attached to the surrounding wood.
Sometimes the surrounding wood gives way before the varnish. Sometimes I
will scrape away all varnish before I start.
I have resorted to chiseling out the plug with a 1/4" very sharp chisel.
Start with a little square on the inside of the circumference. This is a
little painstakingly slow, but I have had very little damage to the
surrounding wood or the screws. Once the screw is exposed I use another
chisel to drive into the slot. As I said, most of the older screws had very
poor slots and getting a screwdriver in them is difficult. Damage to the
slot can still be sustained by not properly setting a screwdriver blade into
the slot. The chisel seems to bite into the screw better. Also, if you
actually tighten the screw, just a little, before trying to remove it, you
loosen the screw from the wood fibers and it will come out easier.
Regards,
Andy
Andy & Linda Woods
Grand Folly
1970 Grand Banks 36 Classic
Georgetown, MD
awoods@XXX.XXX
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Fidler <fidlerjim@XXX.XXX>
To: <trawler-world-list@XXX.XXX>
Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 10:43 PM
Subject: TWL: Re: Replacing windows
> >It may be the cheap teak that I am always working with but that method
> never
> >worked well for me. I always seem to pull the surrounding wood along with
> the
> >plug. Perhaps they used epoxy for gluing the plugs in my tub."
>
>
> Al,
>
> Good point. I've had some plugs that were very difficult to remove, but I
> think
> the ones in my current boat are held in by only a little bit of varnish,
if
> anything.
>
> I received an off list message from Michael Oritt suggesting a self
tapping
> screw
> instead of my two step drill and screw method. I'll try it.
>
>
> >The less you mess up the trim taking it apart, the less work you have to
do
> >when you put it back together. Unfortunately, the whole point of this
> >difficult process is to make it look like you never touched it.
>
> I've had some decent results by prefinishing the plug and installing
> it using a thick flat piece of polished stainless steel and a hammer.
> Actually
> I use a flat deck key. The plug goes in just flush with the trim and I
use
> a rag
> with a little bit of varnish to rub the surface. It looks good enough to
> get
> by until I have time for light sanding and a varnish (or teak oil)
topcoat.
>
>
> Jim Fidler "Fiddlesticks"
> _______________________________________________
> http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/trawler-world-list
>
_______________________________________________
http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/trawler-world-list
|