Two On A Big Ocean The Story of the First Circumnavigation
of the Pacific Basin
in a Small Sailing Ship


      

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Re: lv-ab: Navigation lights

From: (no name) (no email)
Date: Thu Aug 19 1999 - 12:20:47 EDT

  • Next message: Rufus Laggren: "Re: lv-ab: Lightening Protection setup comments?"

    Hi Don and all,

    I couldn't resist this one, since my company sells thousands of halogen (and
    other) bulbs each year.

    In a message dated 8/18/1999 11:58:18 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
     writes:
      
    > So the real question seems to be whether halogens are more tolerant of
    higher voltages,

    The answer is no, just the opposite. There are two reasons that halogens are
    "brighter" then conventional lamps (we call 'em "lamps" in the stage, studio
    and TV business).

    One is that they have to operate at a higher color temperature (typically
    3000-3200K) in order for the halogen cycle to work. Since both conventional
    and halogen bulbs use a tungsten filament, this means that the halogen
    filament's temperature is closer to the melting point of tungsten than a
    conventional bulb (which typically operates at 2800K). Bottom line is that a
    halogen bulb's life decreases more rapidly under over-voltage conditions than
    a conventional bulb because of the maximum temperature of the filament. I
    know of some halogen lamps which operate at 3400K, but no more. Also, because
    the filament temperature is close to the melting point, thay are much more
    susceptible to failure due to physical shock.

    Insofar as being "brighter" for a given wattage, owing to the higher color
    temperature, the light from the halogen is "bluer" (which appears whiter to
    the eye) as well as "brighter" than a conventional lamp (which is "redder").
    A good example of color-temperature is the sun at noon (6500K) vs sunset
    (2000K)

    Another advantage is that the halogen cycle keeps the internal bulb wall (we
    call it the "envelope") clean whereas a conventional tungsten lamp will lose
    about 50% of its output over its rated life due to tungsten being deposited
    on the bulb wall.

    > Speaking of lifetime, you can't touch the bulb's glass as you probably
    know. Your fingerprint will cause rapid failure, so > factor that into the
    replacement scenario. You just wear rubber gloves or use a paper towel if you
    have to press
    > them into place.

    In practicallity, this applies only to higher wattage halogens. Below 50
    watts or so it isn't a problem because there's just not enough heat to
    crystallize the quartz envelope where the oil from your fingers has
    "insulated" it from the outside air. Even bulbs of several thousand watts
    (the largest are 24,000 watts!) may be simply wiped clean with a paper towel
    and alcohol if touched.

    Hope this helps.

    John
    "Truelove"-Westsail 43

    Truelove's pic is at <http://users.erols.com/woax/43pix.html> (Thanks Rick!)

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  • Next message: Rufus Laggren: "Re: lv-ab: Lightening Protection setup comments?"



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