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Re: Refrigerator

juno.com!spindrift
Date: Tue Oct 15 1996 - 11:19:08 EDT

  • Next message: Jim Gregoire: "Buying Used Boat Through Brokerage"

    On Mon, 14 Oct 1996 16:27:50 -0700 John Bierrie <bierrie-ix.netcom.com>
    writes:

    >I've got a few questions and then I'll move on to some other subjects.
    G!
    >
    >What would be considered an "ideal" size for a refrigerator on a boat?

    Actually bigger is not necessarily better. The consideration is what is
    the longest period of time you expect to be away. Then divide the box
    into freezer and refer accordingly.
    >
    >I suspect I can already guess the answer to this one, but top loading
    >vers front loading?
    >
    Top loading has the advantage of being able to open underway when
    healing, while the worst situation is a front loading opening to port or
    starboard. After being on port tack for several days, it was a real pain
    to have to deal with the front opening refer on a Tayana 55' that we
    delivered up the west coast. The combo front opening/top loading refer on our Norseman 535 seems to be a reasonable option, as a large box will
    have difficulty if one is only able to access via one opening.

    If space and $$$ is not a consideration then having separate refer and freezer is a great way to go. Engine drive is by far and away the most
    efficient system to keep things cold, however unless you are moving
    every day, this requires a lot of engine time, so a secondary system is
    advisable. We have a combo 110 vac along with the engine drive, however
    this requires either being connected to shore power or significant
    generator run time. The real decisions is how are you going to use the
    system? For a live aboard who is connect to the shore power umbilical,
    then 110 vac or 12 vdc would be the system of choice. If you are
    cruising, then it is advisable to determine your power consumption and
    available amperage to decide upon what system to use.

    Insulation is the primary determination of the ability of your system to
    stay cold, so more is better. Five or six inches if you have the space.
     Closed cell foam, a good moisture barrier, and a high "R" factor for the
    insulation are all positives to have, while open cell foam, no barrier,
    being next to the engine room or oven, are all negatives.

    >Refrigeration unit of choice?
    >
    I prefer 12 vdc for living on the hook, 110 vac for at the dock, and
    engine driven when under power. Figure out how you are going to use the
    system and go from there. The other day, there was a claim for a system
    that operated only 16% of the time. This would rank very well for a
    continuous system, while the average engine drive system would probably run anywhere from 8% to 100% of the time depending upon how long you were running the engine. IF underway and under power, we found we ran the
    system about 2 hours or 8.3% of any 24 hour day, however when at anchor,
    we ran the system 100% of the time the engine was on. The amount and
    quality of your insulation is going to be the primary factor when
    considering your power requirements. Generally cold beer or ice for
    your drinks will consume the greatest amount of power on the average boat, with nothing else even close. Good Luck.


  • Next message: Jim Gregoire: "Buying Used Boat Through Brokerage"



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