|
|
|
|
|||||
|
||||||
From: Norm of Bandersnatch (no email)
Date: Fri May 11 2007 - 14:45:11 EDT
Lightning does NOT like to turn corners, it wants to get to ground as easily as possible. Make your path to ground as much a straight line as possible.
I don't think the metal of the lightening rod makes any difference considering the enormous power of the spark. Personally I would use stainless. 316 TIG welding rod is available in various diameters and three-foot lengths is handy stuff on a boat. And you can solder stainless using ordinary solder and liquid flux called "stay-clean". The heater of choice here is a big, old-fashion, electric soldering iron with a nice fat copper tip. 150 watts would be ideal.
Norm
S/V Bandersnatch
Lying 30 07.715N 081 38.394W
Julington Creek Estuary FL
----- Original Message -----
From: caleb crosby
To:
Cc: tands; Trawler World List; TWL2; A LiveAboardList
Sent: 5/8/2007 11:06:31 AM
Subject: lv-ab: lighting protection question
I have my mast out on land right now and am rewiring. I wanted to add lighting protection.
Nigel calder suggests a POINTED ROD whose highest point rests above the level of the VHF antenna.
Calder doesn't say what the rod should be composed of- copper seems the right thing....
From the bottom of the mast at the thru deck step, I plan to wire some copper (#2 wire ) thru the deck to an eye bolt in my bilge.
(It's a 1970 bristol 27 and does not have keel bolts.)
Does this sound like a plan? Are most people lighting protecting who live aboard?
Seems like a good feeling when caught in a line squall.
Thanks
caleb
B27
Georgetown Maine
Hauled out
___________________________________________________________________________
|| The Live-Aboard List : send a "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" request ||
|| in body of message to: ||
|