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From: Norm of Bandersnatch (no email)
Date: Sun Feb 11 2007 - 19:20:41 EST
The method I use to open seavalves plugged with barnacles, oysters, etc,
is thus:
Purchase a galvanized pipe nipple, about 6" long, with an OD to fit the
opening in the seavalve, along with a pipe cap to fit the nipple. Have the
hardware store cut off the threads of one end and ream that end on their
threading machine so the OD is sharp. Then get an old motorcycle innertube
at a bike shop. Cut a piece of motorcycle tube about the length of the
pipe. Install the pipe cap on the threaded end of the nipple and the
innertube section there too with a spiral clamp.
To use, close the seavalve and remove hose/fitting. Start sharp end of
pipe nipple into the seavalve and fasten innertube to same with another
hose clamp. Open seavalve and ream out debris. Reverse procedure and
clean up.
For plumbing clogged with less debris objects, Ann-Marie's compressed air
technique can't be beat.
The valve that looks like a lamprey is called a joker and in my unit was
the last valve downstream on the discharge line. They foul easily with
deposits and distort. Fortunately for me, my Wilcox Skipper has a second
flapper type checkvalve downstream of the pump (the first is at the inlet
of the pump) so I could remove the joker valve entirely. Since I use the
shower hose to add flush water, the intake circuit is blocked off.
Norm
S/V Bandersnatch
Lying 30 07.715N 081 38.394W
Julington Creek Estuary FL
> Is there any chance that something is blocking the inlet hose? Close the
> valve at the throughhull, take the hose off the pump put it in a bucket,
> open the valve. It might just be a plastic bag caught in there,
>
> Ditto with the outlet hose.
>
> There is a valve at the base that looks like the mouth of a 'lamprey' It
> should be de-scaled from time to time as I believe it is the 'flap valve'
> that directs water flow in and out.
>
>
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