Next message: Bob Clinkenbeard: "lv-ab: Using epoxy for a water barrier"
I would suggest making oval access holes. With oval holes you can put a
plate or stud ring inside the hole.
For example, you can put the blocking plate, perhaps stainless with bolts
through holes TIG welding the bolt heads to the plate, INSIDE the tank.
With a gasket and some nuts/washers holding the plate in place, and
pressure of the tank contents pressing the plate tighter against the inside
surface of the tank making for a better seal. You could also have threaded
bosses welded onto the plate for various connections.
Considering the fiberglass tank will not be a perfectly smooth surface as a
metal tank would be, you could make the gasket with a technique I have used
many times. Mask off for easy cleanup. Then tape 1/8" wire spacers
between the plate and the tank with just a little bit of the wire between
the plate and the tank holding them apart. Wax the tank thoroughly, then
use a bedding, I use 5200, to bed the plate. After a while clean up.
After a more while pull the spacers and tighten the nuts just enough to
cause uncured bedding to fill the spacer holes. Then wait until the
bedding completely cures. You have made a perfect gasket. You could then
remove the plate and trim excess bedding off.
I use this technique, minus the wax, all my (flange based) sea valves and
none have leaked, also on my tank tops and their manhole hatches, with the
wax, and none leak
Norm
S/V Bandersnatch
Lying 30 07.7N 081 39.6W
Julington Creek Estuary FL
> After epoxy glassing the tank, you can cut access holes and hatches. Cut
> circular, not rectangular, access entries. I would glass in rim support
> for the holes.
>
>
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