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(no email)
Date: Thu Jan 06 2005 - 09:16:11 EST
I would advise against any alteration that requires a check valve in the
bilge pump output. Check valves are highly unreliable in this application.
They will reduce pumping capacity and have a habit of sticking closed or
open.
If you can't plumb it separately to the galley sink drain and don't want to
do a through hull, then it would be more reliable to let the bilge pump
handle it like it is now rather than mess with the plumbing and adding a
valve (or two - you don't want the bilge pump pumping back through the
shower system!!!)
I hope the loop above the sink outlet has a siphon breaker. There is an
article on our web site http://www.yandina.com/hints.htm#Siphon on how to
make vented loops highy reliable. I have about 6 of these loops on Yandina
with no maintenance in 15 years - better than the 1 per year failure of
conventinal vented loops.
Regards,
Andina Marie Foster,
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Martin" <>
To: <>
Sent: Wednesday, January 05, 2005 9:14 PM
Subject: lv-ab: Shower sump outlet
> I'm helping a friend re -plumb the shower sump setup on his newly
acquired,
> old boat.
>
> Current setup: shower sump gravity fed to main bilge sump, whch has
electric
> bilge pump, with no, or missing fitration on that pump.
>
> My proposal: new, separate, manually switched electric pump on shower
sump;
> new and substantial filter boxes on both electric pumps.
>
> Question: where to plumb the shower sump outlet to?
>
> What do others do? We don't want an additional through hull. I'm inclined
to
> plumb it into the outlet pipe from the bilge electric pump, and put non -
> return valves on the outlets from both pumps.
>
> Another issue is the (single!) manual bilge pump which currently outlets
> through the galley sink through hull, with a section of the bilge outlet
> pipe raised above the sink drain plug to stop the contents of the sink
> draining into the pump. Hmmm, need to think about that one.
>
>
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