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From: (no name) (no email)
Date: Fri Dec 03 2004 - 12:33:11 EST
In a message dated 12/2/2004 12:12:21 PM Eastern Standard Time,
writes:
bottom of the tank so there is a pronounced low spot in one particular place
where you can weld in an 3/8" (more or less) FIP (female iron pipe) thread.
The threads could be either vertical (on the "side" of the tank) or horizontal
(the bottom) depending on how you want to access the fitting you install there.
Then a small valve, possibly with hose or tubing off the "open" end to ease
use, would drain your "sediment trap". Presumeably you would take the fuel feed
from a point 1/2" or so above the low place in the tank so you avoid catching
the sediment. It also makes sense construct all connections of strong and
solid metal so that it's difficult to break them off accidentally; and locate
them such that they don't stick out asking to get stepped on or knocked off. It's
amazing what we will grab or lean on when we start to slip. <g>
Also of possible note, AFKIK that CG doesn't like glass or plastic traps or
filter housings in the engine room.
It would be best to have the "low spot" where the water collects to be not
part of the tank itself, but a screw-on fitting that can be replaced easily. If
there is ANY water in the tank itself it will corrode the tank metal where
the water is. By letting ALL the water settle down into some sort of pipe
fittings any corroded parts can be easily replaced.
The Racor fuel filter has a plastic sump. There is a metal bowl shaped heat
baffle to increase the time it would take to melt the plastic in a fire. Most
flexible fuel lines are made of some sort of plastic. Insulating sleeves are
available to help protect them.
It is a Good Thing to have a wire one can pull, from outside of the engine
compartment, that will close all the fuel valves to the tank.
Norm
S/V Bandersnatch
Lying St Augustine FL
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