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From: Tim Holock (no email)
Date: Wed Aug 25 2004 - 15:00:22 EDT
Dick,
I'm VERY unsure about this, but when I did just about the same thing I was
told NOT to use galvanized. due to deadly fumes or something. Maybe the
experts could weigh in.
Of course, you're still alive (we hope) so maybe there wasn't anything to
it...
Tim Holock
SV Marooned, Endeavour 32
Annapolis
-----Original Message-----
From:
[mailto:]On Behalf Of Richard
Goodwin
Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2004 2:11 PM
To: Stan Wasilewsky;
Subject: Re: lv-ab: Cast Iron Exhaust Repair
I bought a used Westerbeke 30 a few years back, and
its exhaust elbow was rotted out where the water
intake joined it.
>From boatyards and other places I got estimates
ranging in the hundreds of dollars for replacements of
various kinds, from brand new to used.
But then when I actually started measuring stuff, I
found that 2" OD iron pipe thread was what went into
the exhaust manifold, and from there it was a simple
matter of putting together a 10" horizontal pipe from
the exhaust manifold, out to a 90 degree "street
elbow" (male on one end, female on the other), into a
T with 2" female on each end, and 1" female in the
middle, which is where the seawater input goes, and
then 2" pipe nipple to the rubber exhaust hose from
there on down to the Vetus thingamajig that pumps the
exhaust and water up and out.
All the pipe fittings are galvanized, and cost around
$20 total. For that price I can afford to replace
them often if they rot out any faster than the $300
ones supplied by Westerbeke.
Dick
--- Stan Wasilewsky <> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I have a friend who owns a 37 foot Benetau with a
> Perkins 4-107 that has a similar exhaust elbow. He
> removed the elbow and took it to a local machine
> shop that fabricated a new one using a smaller elbow
> inside the larger elbow. Both elbows were welded to
> the plate/collar that fastened to the engine exhaust
> manifold. A hole was drilled into the top of the
> larger elbow and that was used to thread a section
> of pipe (for the raw water). It worked out very
> well for him and cost was less than $300. I will
> say this, the local machine shop does a lot of work
> for the local mariners, so he knew how to improvise.
>
> Regards,
>
> Stan
> S/V Ichiban
>
>
> wrote:
> Hello All,
>
> I have a 4" cast iron 90: plumbing on my exhaust
> system that has coorded thru...It seems salt water
> comes back into the system to about this
> point......The casting doesn't get hot when running,
> the cooling water enters right above......One side
> goes to the Detroit Diesel 6v53. The other side is
> connected to the rest of the exhaust system with a
> flexable rubber tube that looks not too hard to
> remove. Once it is removed, the 1/2" hole leak is
> only about 3" in the fitting so the inside is
> acessable.
>
> What are my options ? Take the entire 30" snaking
> weldment off and have it replicated ? (maybe $2500?)
> Take if off and have it welded or brazed (maybe
> $1500) ? Or maybe build up the bottom of this
> casting with Marine Tex Maybe ($500) ? I really
> like the Marine tex idea.....my mechanic is coming
> by friday to take a look......
>
> Currently, I have stopped the sinking with some
> really good "silicone tape", you wrap it around,
> and it clings to itself very tightly. I came back
> from Catalina (4 Hours) and it held, though I
> didn't go past 65% power or so......THIS TAPE IS
> GREAT !
>
> thanks for any ideas.....
>
> BILL
> "Steer Clear"
>
> ---------------------------------
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> New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - Send 10MB messages!
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