Next message: Trish: "RE: lv-ab: water systems"
Al; Water weighs approximately 8 lbs. per gallon...not 64. Mike
On Sat, 4 Oct 2003 09:10:16 -0400 <> writes:
> Al,
>
> freshwater weighs 64 pounds per cubic foot (for arguments sake
> that's about
> 1 gallon). You're saying it's OK to let 32,000 to 64,000 lbs of
> water into
> your boat? you've either got an extremely larger boat or some BIG
> pumps.
> that's enough water to sink Most liveaboard boat that I know. Even
> if it
> doesn't sink the boat, think of all the water damage to you could
> face, just
> because you wanted the convenience of pressure water from the city.
>
> If you really want pressure water, I'd suggest that you get some
> eletrci
> pumps and build an onboard pressure system. The advantage of this
> is that
> you still get pressure water underway, and still don't have to worry
> about
> the city filling your boat with water if a single fitting fails.
>
> I always install fittings in such a manner that if it fails 1
> fitting will
> not jeapordize the boat.
>
> Pierre
>
>
>
>
> Original Message:
> -----------------
> From:
> Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 23:01:13 -0700
> To:
>
,,
> Subject: Re: lv-ab: water systems
>
> Yes, I received that comment a couple of times. However the
> original poster
> commented that he turned off the water before leaving the boat,
> hence I
> didn't add the same info...
>
> (BTW: On Viking Star, I refill the tanks. Don;t even have a 'city
> water'
> connector)
>
> Have also heard of using a 'water meter device', designed to put a
> set
> amount of water onto the lawn when watering it.. Idea is that you
> set it
> for say 500 or 1000 gal every day or two. Then if something does
> happen,
> you will only get 500-1000 gals inside.
>
> -al-
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <>
> To: "al.thomason" <>; "Eric Thompson"
> <>; "LIVE_ABOARD"
> <>
> Sent: Friday, October 03, 2003 4:59 PM
> Subject: Re: lv-ab: water systems
>
>
> There's 1 small difference al, If the regulator fails, you get an
> RV full
> of water, most of which runs out the door. On a boat, you get a
> boat full
> of water which becomes a submarine!!
>
> Fill your tanks then disconnect, it's not that hard and it will
> never sink
> your boat!
>
> Pierre.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "al.thomason" <>
> To: "Eric Thompson" <>; "LIVE_ABOARD"
> <>
> Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 10:25 PM
> Subject: Re: lv-ab: water systems
>
>
> > If you go to an RV store, they will be able to sell you a
> pressure
> regulator
> > with standard 'water hose' fittings which will reduce the pressure
> to
> around
> > 40 PSI. This is very common for RVs, in that they use a lot of
> plastic
> hose
> > in their internal plumbing. Then just put the regulator on at
> the
> faucet,
> > before the hose leading to your boat.
> >
> > -al-
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Eric Thompson" <>
> > To: "LIVE_ABOARD" <>
> > Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 4:54 PM
> > Subject: lv-ab: water systems
> >
> >
> > Hi All,
> > I don't even have a water tank on my boat at this time.
> > I just have internal hose connected from the water inlet
> > at the stern and run to the water heater, galley cold,
> > and head cold faucets. The West Marine store sells 'red
> > line' hose (I used 5/8 inch) which is rated for 125
> > degrees F (too hot to tolerate unmixed) with a burst
> > strength of 250 PSI.
> > If you use good fittings and good clamps I can't
> > believe any municipal water system is going to burst the
> > system. I turn off the water any time the boat will be
> > unattended for any length of time.
> > Someday I will be installing water tanks. I will
> > install a backflow prevention device and continue to
> > connect to municipal water systems. When the pressure of
> > the municipal water system blows a hose it will be time
> > to replace all the hoses.
> >
> > Eric Thompson
> > S/V Procrastinator
> > South San Francisco
> >
> >
> >
>
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