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(no email)
Date: Sat Oct 04 2003 - 09:10:16 EDT
Al,
freshwater weighs 64 pounds per cubic foot (for arguments sake that's about
1 gallon). You're saying it's OK to let 32,000 to 64,000 lbs of water into
your boat? you've either got an extremely larger boat or some BIG pumps.
that's enough water to sink Most liveaboard boat that I know. Even if it
doesn't sink the boat, think of all the water damage to you could face, just
because you wanted the convenience of pressure water from the city.
If you really want pressure water, I'd suggest that you get some eletrci
pumps and build an onboard pressure system. The advantage of this is that
you still get pressure water underway, and still don't have to worry about
the city filling your boat with water if a single fitting fails.
I always install fittings in such a manner that if it fails 1 fitting will
not jeapordize the boat.
Pierre
Original Message:
-----------------
From:
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 23:01:13 -0700
To:
,,
Subject: Re: lv-ab: water systems
Yes, I received that comment a couple of times. However the original poster
commented that he turned off the water before leaving the boat, hence I
didn't add the same info...
(BTW: On Viking Star, I refill the tanks. Don;t even have a 'city water'
connector)
Have also heard of using a 'water meter device', designed to put a set
amount of water onto the lawn when watering it.. Idea is that you set it
for say 500 or 1000 gal every day or two. Then if something does happen,
you will only get 500-1000 gals inside.
-al-
----- Original Message -----
From: <>
To: "al.thomason" <>; "Eric Thompson"
<>; "LIVE_ABOARD" <>
Sent: Friday, October 03, 2003 4:59 PM
Subject: Re: lv-ab: water systems
There's 1 small difference al, If the regulator fails, you get an RV full
of water, most of which runs out the door. On a boat, you get a boat full
of water which becomes a submarine!!
Fill your tanks then disconnect, it's not that hard and it will never sink
your boat!
Pierre.
----- Original Message -----
From: "al.thomason" <>
To: "Eric Thompson" <>; "LIVE_ABOARD"
<>
Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 10:25 PM
Subject: Re: lv-ab: water systems
> If you go to an RV store, they will be able to sell you a pressure
regulator
> with standard 'water hose' fittings which will reduce the pressure to
around
> 40 PSI. This is very common for RVs, in that they use a lot of plastic
hose
> in their internal plumbing. Then just put the regulator on at the
faucet,
> before the hose leading to your boat.
>
> -al-
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Eric Thompson" <>
> To: "LIVE_ABOARD" <>
> Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 4:54 PM
> Subject: lv-ab: water systems
>
>
> Hi All,
> I don't even have a water tank on my boat at this time.
> I just have internal hose connected from the water inlet
> at the stern and run to the water heater, galley cold,
> and head cold faucets. The West Marine store sells 'red
> line' hose (I used 5/8 inch) which is rated for 125
> degrees F (too hot to tolerate unmixed) with a burst
> strength of 250 PSI.
> If you use good fittings and good clamps I can't
> believe any municipal water system is going to burst the
> system. I turn off the water any time the boat will be
> unattended for any length of time.
> Someday I will be installing water tanks. I will
> install a backflow prevention device and continue to
> connect to municipal water systems. When the pressure of
> the municipal water system blows a hose it will be time
> to replace all the hoses.
>
> Eric Thompson
> S/V Procrastinator
> South San Francisco
>
>
>
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