Next message: Paul W. Esterle: "Re: lv-ab: more questions"
There's 1 small difference al, If the regulator fails, you get an RV full
of water, most of which runs out the door. On a boat, you get a boat full
of water which becomes a submarine!!
Fill your tanks then disconnect, it's not that hard and it will never sink
your boat!
Pierre.
----- Original Message -----
From: "al.thomason" <>
To: "Eric Thompson" <>; "LIVE_ABOARD"
<>
Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 10:25 PM
Subject: Re: lv-ab: water systems
> If you go to an RV store, they will be able to sell you a pressure
regulator
> with standard 'water hose' fittings which will reduce the pressure to
around
> 40 PSI. This is very common for RVs, in that they use a lot of plastic
hose
> in their internal plumbing. Then just put the regulator on at the
faucet,
> before the hose leading to your boat.
>
> -al-
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Eric Thompson" <>
> To: "LIVE_ABOARD" <>
> Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 4:54 PM
> Subject: lv-ab: water systems
>
>
> Hi All,
> I don't even have a water tank on my boat at this time.
> I just have internal hose connected from the water inlet
> at the stern and run to the water heater, galley cold,
> and head cold faucets. The West Marine store sells 'red
> line' hose (I used 5/8 inch) which is rated for 125
> degrees F (too hot to tolerate unmixed) with a burst
> strength of 250 PSI.
> If you use good fittings and good clamps I can't
> believe any municipal water system is going to burst the
> system. I turn off the water any time the boat will be
> unattended for any length of time.
> Someday I will be installing water tanks. I will
> install a backflow prevention device and continue to
> connect to municipal water systems. When the pressure of
> the municipal water system blows a hose it will be time
> to replace all the hoses.
>
> Eric Thompson
> S/V Procrastinator
> South San Francisco
>
>
>
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