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lv-ab: Blister Repair (and other) update

From: Keith (no email)
Date: Sun Feb 02 2003 - 10:44:32 EST

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    OK, I've been so busy with the boat, I haven't written an update in a
    long time. Here we go.

    My Krogen 42, Anastasia III, hull #99 had lots of blisters, so I decided
    to do a hull peel, dry the hull with the HotVac system, and relaminate
    with vinylester resin and three layers of 1.5 oz. fiberglass mat.
    Started this work late October, 2002. Started drying the hull with the
    hotvac system around Mid-November, wrapping that up about Jan. 17. We
    ended up drying each section for about 18 hours at 80C. Didn't want to
    get any hotter due to the Airex PVC foam core. A solid FG boat could
    probably be dried a lot faster because you could use a higher
    temperature, usually 92C or hotter. We dried between 5-6 days a week.
    The last week or two, the shipyard didn't keep the pads on all the time,
    sort of a scheduling "hiccup". We had areas that didn't seem to want to
    dry even with repeated applications of the hotvac system. We ground out
    a few and tested, they seemed dry at the core.

    Got into a lot of research and discussion of various moisture meters and
    how they worked; still working on this. Short version... they require
    some interpretation, and regardless of what the meter says, they don't
    really read in % moisture. For instance, when a Sovereign meter reads
    "5%", that translates to roughly 0.1% contamination in the hull. I'm
    compiling a lot of info. on these meters now, and will publish a summary
    when I get it all together. I even baked a core sample of my hull that
    was about 12" in diameter for 4 hrs.+ at 235F, then tested it after
    cooling with the meters. The Sovereign still read 5%. We also found that
    metal in the hull will cause the meter to read high. Found several
    chunks of unknown metal embedded in the FG in places.

    We finally identified a couple of dozen areas that seemed to read
    high... we ground these out and filled with vinylester putty. We started
    relaminating the hull with three layers of 1.5 oz. fiberglass mat and
    vinylester resin on Jan. 27. Next day a warm front came through with
    rain, and we had to hold off another 3-4 days before proceeding, as the
    boat was "sweating" inside and out due to the warming and high humidity.
    As of today, about half the hull is done. After that, we're going to
    fair the hull, barrier coat and bottom job. I can finally see the light
    at the end of the tunnel!

    The HotVac heating pads have a non-woven fabric layer that you replace
    as you go along. This sits against the hull, and provides a channel for
    contaminates that get sucked out of the hull to go to the vacuum hookup
    for removal. There is a picture of this at the site, showing the
    contamination trails where stuff was pulled from the hull. Sometimes
    this stuff was just brown, but on a few areas, we got crystalline green
    stuff out of the hull that coated the inside of the vacuum hoses,
    necessitating cleanup. Copper compounds??? Who knows.

    New pix of all this are at: http://photos.yahoo.com/klemmons69 Click on
    "blister repair."

    There are also pix of the evolution of the bow thruster installation,
    both inside and out, which is essentially completed now. This was a
    13HP, 24V Wesmar system.

    There are also some pix of interest to Krogen owners about how to rebed
    your PH windows. Essentially, the outside frame is solid. You remove it,
    cut out TONS of caulk to remove the glass. The inside teak frame, best
    as I can tell is just caulked in place, and serves as the bedding base.
    Once you've got all the old caulking out, you have to seal all the voids
    between the hull and inside frame, then run a bead on the teak frame to
    rebed the glass. Once the glass is in place, you run MORE caulking
    against the glass, then a bead on the external frame, etc. This turned
    into a bigger job than I had expected... about 4 solid hours over a
    couple of days. It took TWO tubes of caulk; I used BoatLife polysulfide.
    One big hint. Once you've got the glass out and the frame all cleaned
    up, set the glass in place to see how much caulk you need between the
    glass and the internal teak frame. Mine wasn't true, and took a larger
    bead to bed the glass than I had expected.

    More to come later, maybe back in the water late Feb., hopefully in time
    to go to Mardi Gras in Galveston! If anyone wants to check out the work
    in person, she's at Seabrook Shipyard in League City, TX.

    -- 
    __________________
    Keith
    Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
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