Two On A Big Ocean The Story of the First Circumnavigation
of the Pacific Basin
in a Small Sailing Ship


      

Other Books by
Hal Roth
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Re: lv-ab: Dorade Boxes question

From: (no name) (no email)
Date: Sun Jan 19 2003 - 12:36:53 EST

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    In a message dated 18-Jan-03 18:45:39 Eastern Standard Time,
     writes:

    > My question is how to mount them?

    I would glue them down. 5200 comes to mind but something like liquid nails
    could be used. This eliminates fastener penetrations.

    First put them down dry in the correct position and draw a pencil line around
    them.

    Then mask off the boxes and the deck with blue masking tape.

    Make little spacers. I use 1" bits of 1/8" soft iron galvanized wire bent
    into a L shape. Tape down the spacers so the long arm of the L sticks beyond
    the blue tape on the deck by about a 1/8" or so. I usually use four spacers,
    one at each corner.

    Then apply a fat bead of 5200 (or whatever) to the deck. You want to have
    the goo ooze out all around the dorade box.

    Put the item onto the deck and push it down so it fetches up on the spacers.
    Be sure the item is in the proper position and tape it in place so it will
    stay until the glue takes up an initial set. When it does, cut off the
    excess, remove the tape, spacers, and clean up. Usually if you push down a
    bit on the item the uncured goo inside will fill the little holes left when
    you remove the spacers.

    Let the goo fully cure before you put any stress on the item. The result
    will be a perfect formed-in-place 1/8" gasket.

    If the item is not a highly stressed part the glue itself may be enough to
    hold it well. I have 12 good-sized bronze portholes glued into my cabin
    trunk with 5200 in this manner and they have been trouble free for decades.

    If the item is stressed, such as a skylight or cleat, you can include
    fasteners using this technique. After the goo cures fully, simply snug up a
    little more on the fasteners.

    I have used this technique all over my boat and it has never leaked anywhere.

    Alternates to the wire spacers: Those little soft plastic dots sold in
    hardware stores to put on the bottoms of ash trays, potted plants, etc., to
    keep them from marring the furniture; O-ring on the fasteners.

    The whole idea is to maintain a specific amount of the goo between the item
    and the base. If one does not use spacers of some sort there is no way to
    insure that the bedding with have the thickness needed to have the resilience
    enough to move without breaking the waterproof bond. If there is 1/8" of goo
    and the item moves a little the bedding can stretch a bit without tearing
    loose. If the bedding is paper thin then the same amount of movement will
    stretch the bedding far beyond its limit of elasticity and it will tear off
    of whatever it is attached to and water will be able to wick through the
    passage thus formed.

      
    Norm

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