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From: Stan Gardner (no email)
Date: Thu Dec 13 2001 - 10:14:54 EST
I have a Whitby 42 ketch with three integral water tanks. The boat was
built in '77 in Canada and I am told the resins used are different than
those used today (supposedly superior, but less environmentally
friendly). I can't comment on that, but the tanks have held up
beautifully. I recently opened the access plates and cleaned them
out. The only problem I've had is that they pop riveted the aluminum tops
onto the tanks, the rivets are giving out (corroding) and there's no access
to fix them. I guess I'll let them leak into the bilge when the boat heels.
My holding tank is SST and also holding up very well after 25 years, no
signs of failure or corrosion.
At 11:16 AM 12/13/01 -0500, Shanica J II wrote:
>Patrick,
>
>I have to admit that I have never got a response from anyone in the marine
>industry advoacting integral tanks. My experience and the responses that I
>have receive to queries on this subect is that Integral fiberglass tanks are
>a bad idea at best and aboat ruiner at worst.
>
>Integral fiberglass tanks have 3 serious (unavoidable) problems.
>
>1) They tend to suffer from less than fanatical contruction practises. This
>means that they are a secondary bond, most often with polyester resin. This
>means that in time they will fail and leak.
>
>2) they are intergral and therfor un servicable/unremovable. The only way
>to fix a leaking intergral tank is to line it with something, usually a
>bladder. This is almost never a satisfactory retro.
>
>3) If used for water tanks, they will forever impart a taste to the water
>( that's why POly tanks are best for potable waer, they do not impart any
>taste to the water)
>
>Beyond that the ability to remove a tank to work on/replace far outweighs
>the max capacity of an integral tank.
>
>As an Aside: Notice that most Quality Yahct builders do not use integral
>tanks. they use fabricated tanks, and almost never bladders. INtegral Tanks
>almost always result in a lower resale value in the used market.
>
>Pierre.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <>
>To: <>
>Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 7:50 PM
>Subject: Re: lv-ab: Re: Holding tank
>
>
> >
> > On Wed, 12 Dec 2001 18:24:27 -0500 "Shanica J II"
> > <> writes:
> > > Stainless Steel has for a long time been regarded as a poor choice
> > > for tanks
> > > in a boat.
> >
> > Not necessarily true, it depends on the application. We use the proper
> > grade of stainless steel in our boats for water tanks for clean, sweet
> > tasting water. Works great. Everything has to be isolated properly with
> > appropriate fasteners.
> >
> > > They suffer from corrosion due to oxygen starvation.
> > > The best
> > > tanks for Holding waste are Poly.
> >
> > Not necessarily true. We use integrated fiberglass holding tanks in our
> > hulls. they are at the bow and serve as a collision barrier. Run over
> > something in the water and you may hole the holding tank and the worst
> > that happens is some minor pollution. The integrated holding tank also
> > adds additional strength and reinforcement to the forward hull.
> >
> > > If you want to know. Black Iron or Monel make the best fuel tanks.
> >
> > Not necessarily true. Black iron is failed technology from the '70's.
> > Monel is too expensive. Currently, the best material for fuel tanks is
> > the proper grade of aluminum.
> >
> > > I'd use
> > > Poly for Water and waste tanks.
> >
> > Not necessarily true, water will take on a plastic taste and Poly tanks
> > are subject to cracking under some conditions.
> >
> > Patrick Gerety
> > Willard Marine
> >
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Stan Gardner ~~~_/) ~~~ Schlumberger
Automated Test Equipment
Senior Mechanical Engineer Probe Systems
Tel - 408 586 6532 150 Baytech Drive
FAX - 408-586 4654 San Jose, CA
95134-2302
Email -
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