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From: Shanica J II (no email)
Date: Wed Dec 12 2001 - 18:24:27 EST
Stainless Steel has for a long time been regarded as a poor choice for tanks
in a boat. They suffer from corrosion due to oxygen starvation. The best
tanks for Holding waste are Poly. Take to Peggy Peal about this, she's the
goddess of waste systems.
If you want to know. Black Iron or Monel make the best fuel tanks. I'd use
Poly for Water and waste tanks.
Pierre.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Owen H. Morgan" <>
To: <>
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 5:58 PM
Subject: lv-ab: Re: Holding tank
> Howdy!
>
> Doug Barnard wrote (> ):
>
> > Doesn't the wee-wee corrode the S/S?
>
> Not if the tank is proper high grade S/S which is the only metal that
should be used for any tank on a boat. (Always test with a magnet when
buying S/S for the boat. Real S/S is not magnetic.)
>
> > Wouldn't a plastic tank be better?
>
> This might be OK if you can find one that fits the space, but it must be
manufactured as a holding tank. You can't use a water or fuel tank, as there
is a risk of the odour leaking into your accommodation. A S/S tank also has
the benefit that it can be made to measure. While on the topic, all the
plumbing for the heads system should be either purpose made or rubber
exhaust hose. Anything else will smell.
>
> > Also, doesn't that mean you have to mount the head
> > above the level of the tank? Or maybe the flush
> > action is enough to get the "material" uphill...
>
> A couple of my friends have this system with the holding tank up under the
deckhead and no discharge pump. They both have their heads installed at the
normal height (not in the middle of the foredeck...) Neither of them have
any problems flushing.
>
> > I've heard of a guy that has his holding tank
> > discharge below the waterline. When he's underway,
> > the suction of the water rushing past the opening
> > sucks out the tank, then he slows a bit to allow
> > water to enter the tank, priming it for the next
> > round of "material".
>
> It might work, but this sounds like half luck, half science. Also, what
would he do if he ever needed to empty his tank when the boat was not
moving. I would guess this guy has his tank installed with the bottom few
inches below the waterline. If the tank is above the waterline it is
guaranteed to empty when the seacock is opened.
>
> Even with a tank up under the deckhead, It might be an idea to mount (or
mould if you have a glass boat) a flange ahead of the opening to make a
venturi effect to help the suction. This will also reduce the turbulence
from the opening. I'm planning to do this for my cockpit drains. Hopefully,
this will also stop water slopping up through the drains when I'm hard on
the wind and slamming into a headsea.
>
> PS. How interesting that my first discussion on this list is about toilet
systems. The pump in my Jabsco head needs rebuilding now after eight years
of daily use. Not a task I'm looking forwards to, particularly as the
outside temperature is 5°C (41°F) and there's half a gale blowing... I think
I'll pump some strong bleach through it and let it sit for a day before I
start.
>
> Owen
> --
> @ Sjøhussenteret marina
> 68°43.13'N 15°24.74'E
> Sortland in Vesterålen, Northern Norway
>
> Owen H. Morgan, Yacht "Naomi J.", LD-9311
> c/o Idrettsveien 6, 3188 HORTEN, Norway
>
>
> http://pagina.de/naomi.j
> Phone: +47 92053097
>
>
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