Don Casey - Dragged Aboard Storm Tactics Handbook:
Modern Methods of Heaving-To for Survival in Extreme Conditions
by Lin Pardey and Larry Pardey


      

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Re: lv-ab: Chain Plate

From: Keith (no email)
Date: Tue Dec 04 2001 - 07:08:09 EST

  • Next message: Paul Saltzman: "RE: lv-ab: Chain Plate"

    Why does that scene from "American Graffiti" come to mind here? ;)

    Bob Clinkenbeard wrote:
    >
    > Compared to this I think the chain tied around the car axle is a lot faster
    > AND SAFER!
    > Setting ones pants on fire is no laughing matter!
    > For safety's sake...put the wife in the car with her foot on the brake and
    > when it comes loose have her DUCK and HIT the brake! Or hit the brake and
    > duck....whichever works for you.......
    >
    > Bob Clinkenbeard
    > M/Y Twin Screws
    > 1964 Chris Craft Roamer 56'
    > Under reconstruction in Savannah
    >
    > SNIP SNIP SNIP
    > > Rick said:
    > >
    > > "If finesse doesn't work, you're going to
    > > have to resort to brute force, particularly if it's 5200. Put a shackle
    > in
    > > the eye of the chainplate. Shackle in a suitable length of chain. Wrap
    > > chain around axle of vehicle and accelerate sharply. With 5200, it's best
    > > if you get at least a few dozen feet running before the car takes up the
    > > slack."
    > >
    > > Holy Cow! I can't believe that you said this.
    > >
    > > So, after you have pulled your boat down on top of your vehicle, then
    > what?
    >
    > > First, cut the chainplate into 1/2" slices and try removing the slices one
    > at a time using a sharpened cold chisel and a hammer. Actually, I would cut
    > one slice off the bottom first to see if this approach will work at all.
    > >
    > > Fire up a good quality, small (4 1/2 or 5")[*] angle grinder with a Walter
    > Zipcut disk in it (see
    > >
    > > They are quite scary to use the first time so I would practice a lot on
    > some scrap metal first. There are lots of hot sparks
    >
    > (I have set my coveralls on fire twice!)
    >
    > so watch out for where the debris lands. You are going to have to use a
    > plunge cut to get started and then push the cutting wheel from left to
    > right - they don't like to cut against the rotation of the wheel and you
    > should position yourself with the grinder at about belt height so that you
    > can use your body weight to control the grinder. You are going to have to
    > control the depth of cut yourself, this can be done, but it takes practice.
    > Just remember, if you can cut steel quickly with these things then you can
    > certainly cut fibreglass!
    > >
    > >
    > > [*] I really like my De Walt 402 4 1/2 grinder - light, small, powerful
    > and the handle can be screwed
    > > If that approach did not work, then:
    > >
    > > Second
    >
    > grinding it away particle by particle!
    > >
    > you are going to have to take it really slowly and not just bear down on it.
    > This would heat up the steel and work harden it almost to the point where
    > you cannot grind it at all.
    >
    > Work away at several area in sequence about 1/2" apart, it is going to take
    > time.
    >
    > I don't know how big your chainplates are, but you will need several
    > Flexcuts to get this job done.
    >
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    -- 
    __________________
    Keith
    A person who smiles in the face of adversity probably has a scapegoat.
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  • Next message: Paul Saltzman: "RE: lv-ab: Chain Plate"



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