Don Casey - Dragged Aboard Storm Tactics Handbook:
Modern Methods of Heaving-To for Survival in Extreme Conditions
by Lin Pardey and Larry Pardey


      

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Re: lv-ab: Chain Plate

From: Bob Clinkenbeard (no email)
Date: Mon Dec 03 2001 - 21:11:46 EST

  • Next message: Rick Kennerly: "RE: lv-ab: Chain Plate"

    Compared to this I think the chain tied around the car axle is a lot faster
    AND SAFER!
    Setting ones pants on fire is no laughing matter!
    For safety's sake...put the wife in the car with her foot on the brake and
    when it comes loose have her DUCK and HIT the brake! Or hit the brake and
    duck....whichever works for you.......

    Bob Clinkenbeard
    M/Y Twin Screws
    1964 Chris Craft Roamer 56'
    Under reconstruction in Savannah

    SNIP SNIP SNIP
    > Rick said:
    >
    > "If finesse doesn't work, you're going to
    > have to resort to brute force, particularly if it's 5200. Put a shackle
    in
    > the eye of the chainplate. Shackle in a suitable length of chain. Wrap
    > chain around axle of vehicle and accelerate sharply. With 5200, it's best
    > if you get at least a few dozen feet running before the car takes up the
    > slack."
    >
    > Holy Cow! I can't believe that you said this.
    >
    > So, after you have pulled your boat down on top of your vehicle, then
    what?

    > First, cut the chainplate into 1/2" slices and try removing the slices one
    at a time using a sharpened cold chisel and a hammer. Actually, I would cut
    one slice off the bottom first to see if this approach will work at all.
    >
    > Fire up a good quality, small (4 1/2 or 5")[*] angle grinder with a Walter
    Zipcut disk in it (see
    >
    > They are quite scary to use the first time so I would practice a lot on
    some scrap metal first. There are lots of hot sparks

    (I have set my coveralls on fire twice!)

    so watch out for where the debris lands. You are going to have to use a
    plunge cut to get started and then push the cutting wheel from left to
    right - they don't like to cut against the rotation of the wheel and you
    should position yourself with the grinder at about belt height so that you
    can use your body weight to control the grinder. You are going to have to
    control the depth of cut yourself, this can be done, but it takes practice.
    Just remember, if you can cut steel quickly with these things then you can
    certainly cut fibreglass!
    >
    >
    > [*] I really like my De Walt 402 4 1/2 grinder - light, small, powerful
    and the handle can be screwed
    > If that approach did not work, then:
    >
    > Second

    grinding it away particle by particle!
    >
    you are going to have to take it really slowly and not just bear down on it.
    This would heat up the steel and work harden it almost to the point where
    you cannot grind it at all.

    Work away at several area in sequence about 1/2" apart, it is going to take
    time.

    I don't know how big your chainplates are, but you will need several
    Flexcuts to get this job done.

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  • Next message: Rick Kennerly: "RE: lv-ab: Chain Plate"



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