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From: shanicajII (no email)
Date: Mon Nov 05 2001 - 23:12:47 EST
For the cost of the jumper cables you could buy a second battery switch.
Here's how I have my setup wired.
I switched from GC batteries to 12v Trojan sc225 deep cycle batteries so
this was wasy to incorporate.
First I devided my main house bank of 4 130ah batts into 2 banks of 260 ah.
I did this so that I could isolate a bank if a battery did while I removed
it from the bank. I wired these to the #1 & #2 terminals of my main
battery switch. from the Common output, I added a wire that connects to
another battery switch and wired it to the #2 terminal. The #1 terminal is
wired to the start battery and the common output is wired to the starter.
this allows the start battery to crank the engine, or feed the house
circuit. It also allows the house circuit to start the engine.
While we're at it, you should wire the Bilge pump and Vhf DIRECTLY to the
house bank, bypassing all the switches. It's a safety feature. If you have
guests or kids aboard. they can't accidentally shut off the bilge pumps.
Also if you hide the second battery swtich, you can disable the engine
circuit as an antitheift mechanism.
Pierre.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Lynch" <>
To: <>
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 10:47 AM
Subject: Re: lv-ab: Combiners to be demistified - please
> My system is, in my opinion, screwed up, so here's the way I'm going to
> rewire. I'm going to wire the starting battery, a single group 27
> directly to the starter and other engine controls, just as if it were
> the only battery on board. All the other 12V electrical equipment will
> remain on the house batteries (2 banks of golf cart batteries maintained
> by a Link 2000/Heart 2000 watt inverter). I'm putting a combiner
> between the house and starting batteries. The combiner will go on the
> post connected to the house equipment and I'll have to manually switch
> to all to charge both batteries. Perhaps later I'll invest in a another
> combiner to extend the convienience, but then I'd have to rethink the
> Link connections.
>
> For emergencies, I'll just have to carry a set of jumper cables, in case
> the starting battery won't. Or I could use a knife switch to parallel
> them. Sorry, but I don't trust any relay to handle starter currents so
> I'm wouldn't think of using the combiner to parallel during starting.
> Warranties aren't worth much if the beast fails where Murphy lives, a
> couple of light years from anywhere. 8)
>
> In normal conditions, all I'll have to do is remember to put the battery
> switch in the both/all position when running the engine. Since the
> house and starting batteries are quite a bit different, I suspect I'll
> have to monitor the charge states of both to make sure I'm not over or
> under charging one or the other with this setup. I may have to alter my
> plans if I find that to be a problem.
>
> That's my plan. Comments?
>
> Jim.
> Wind Angel, 41' Irwin ketch http://wind-angel.com
>
> Rick Morel wrote:
> >
>
> > We use the old manual switch method. I'm not knocking a combiner, but
really
> > see no real reason to spend the money and find someplace to put it.
Again,
> > my opinion and for my situation. I can see where it is a convenience,
but
> > not enough of one to remove one step from the "check list". Maybe I'd
feel
> > diferently if we had a power boat and a matched pair of batteries. We
have a
> > couple type 24 marine always in parallel for starting and four golf cart
in
> > series/parallel for house.
> >
>
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