Don Casey - Dragged Aboard Storm Tactics Handbook:
Modern Methods of Heaving-To for Survival in Extreme Conditions
by Lin Pardey and Larry Pardey


      

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Re: lv-ab: externally regulated alternator

From: (no name) (no email)
Date: Tue Apr 10 2001 - 22:20:09 EDT

  • Next message: (no name): "lv-ab: Getting the most from your batteries"

    In a message dated 04/02/2001 6:59:32 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
    writes:

    > I would like a copy please. Does this allow you to use auto alternators
    > instead of more expensive "marine" models?

    The Coast Guard requires that if the boat is sold new, it must meet stringent
    safety issues to protect the buyer from blowing himself up before wisdom in
    these matters is gained.

    After you get the boat it is out of their hands, except for the "boarding"
    issues listed on the boarding report.

    If your boat is not paid for, or you have insurance, these folks have a
    vested interest in keeping the boat in salable condition.

    But if you are like me, you are free to blow yourself and your closest
    friends (but not paying passengers) up. Thank Neptune and Rudy D. for Diesel
    engines and the hard-to-ignite oil fuels they use.
     
    If you have a gas engine, an ignition protected alternator is desirable (or
    demanded by bank/insurer). The idea is to become aware of the gas leak
    *before* you blow up.

    If diesel, then an alternator is just a spinning magnet pushing electrons
    around in wires. It would be helpful if I could get to see a machine as just
    what it is rather than by some description such as marine, consumer,
    commercial, military grade, etc. Unfortunately my x-ray vision with metal
    analyzing plug-in is still in the mail.

    All of the machinery on board Bandersnatch could be found ashore, except for
    the salt water cooling circuits. Using a description such as "marine" may
    mean that it is made of corrosion resistant materials, that it was sprayed
    with an anticorrosion juice, or that the seller hopes a well-heeled boater
    will pay a premium for a mermaid on the label.

    Some experienced cruisers say the best is to mount two alternators on the
    engine.

    To charge the starting battery, an ordinary $45 Delco car alternator, will do.

    To charge the house battery you must take control of the field current, and
    thus the charging current, yourself. This means you must use an externally
    regulated alternator. I use a Chrysler type alternator on my main engine
    with selectable manual or three stage regulator. This is bigger in diameter
    than the Delco, with big open vents in the housing. It also comes stock
    externally regulated. I have access to both ends of the field (the rotor
    actually) winding at terminal posts on the back of the alternator. I trashed
    one myself last year by running it with no load. Another developed an open
    rotor during the first few hours of operation and was replaced by the seller.
     It is good for about 40 amps continuous duty.

    I want one to be good for about 125 amps continuous in a hot engine room.

    My next alternator will probably be a large frame, high output, rewound Delco
    with external regulation.

    Sending "Alternator Re-Do" separately.

    Norm
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