Next message: Richard Goodwin: "Re: lv-ab: Getting a vice mounted"
Jeffrey,
Your suggestion would provide some level of insulation but it also creates a
moisture barrier using the plastic. If the material used is not attached to
the hull then you have created a place that condensation will flourish. It
will then run down the hull sides in buckets. Not good for wood, steel and
fiberglass boats could have some wood in those areas. Mold and mildew also
like dark damp places.
The idea is to create an insulated wall that does not create condensation,
but one that stops it.
I picked a steel hull because,
I had one prior to this and liked the spaciousness because less support was
needed.
Steel is "bullet proof" when grounding or meetings deadheads.
Repairs easily.
Very stable and does not "bob" around in the water...weight.
Will not rust if kept painted but a problem spot identifies itself
immediately with a streak or spot unlike wood or fiberglass. All boats
become "rather troublesome" eventually.
I wanted a big boat that I could pay cash for. This boat was almost totally
replated, engines rebuilt and all running gear and mechanics are new. The
interior was gutted allowing me to rebuild it the way I want and....
I only paid $ 45,000. for it.
It runs 22 mph on plane.
Bob Clinkenbeard
Twin Screws Enterprises
To accomplish a great task you must act....and dream.
TWIN SCREWS 1964 Chris Craft Roamer 56
Photos http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=163724&a=1673119
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