Next message: Rich, Michael: "RE: lv-ab: heat shrink tubing source"
I have all the original alternators, starters, etc. so my DC system is
grounded to the salt water I live in. I also have a large inverter that
runs off of the AC and acts as a battery charger when I am plugged in. I
don't have any kind of diagram showing the internal connections of the
inverter so I don't know how it handles the connections between grounds.
In my feeble mind, if the DC is not referenced to ground by being
connected, wether positive or negative, then you are floating above (or
below) ground. If your dock connection is grounded to the water somewhere
like it should be, your engine and underwater fittings will not be the same
potential as the salt water thereby causing current flow and corrosion.
True of False?
>michaelg writes:
> >
> >I do most things at my own peril. Would you like to elaborate on
> >that?
> >
>
>First things first.
>
>There is no real need to ground a DC system on a boat.
>
>Negative ground or for that fact positive ground systems in some parts of
>the world are used in transportation vehicles to reduce cost. The chassis
>is used as a conductor eliminating the need for "return" wiring.
>
>Such is not the case on a boat.
>
>Alternators, cranking motors, "senders", etc are all available with an
>insulated neutral which will isolate the engine from the DC system,
>which, IMHO, is the best way of installing a DC system.
>
>If you do not have these items installed, the DC system is automatically
>connected to the boat ground via engine block and cooling water.
>
>If you now connect the AC shore power to the DC ground, you are in direct
>violation of NEC, because you have multiple earth ground points on a
>service entrance, which IMHO, places you in peril.
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Michael Gibbons
http://presys.com/~michaelg/
40' Marine Trader
"Sea Dreamer"
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